Santari’s small workshop.

Skomaker Dagestad has developed the range together with Atsushi Tate who runs a small two-man workshop in the Asakusa district of Tokyo. I myself have visited him several times and it is a very dedicated shoe manufacturer, a real shoe nerd and really committed person, who both make his own brand Santari, make smaller productions for other brands, offer bespoke, and in addition, the one who does the hand stitching for example split toe derbys for several Japanese RTW brands.

Lovely lazyman.

Really gorgeous bottoms.

The last the shoes are made on have been developed together, it differs from much else on the market in that it’s offering a bit wider toe, not least for the fit and providing good space for the toes all the way forward. Despite this, the shoes look rather elegant, which not least contributes to the very narrow waist with fiddle back and tightly cut heel. The shoes are hand lasted and hand welted, and the sole stitch at the waist is sewn by hand to be able to make a real blind welt here, while the seam at the front is made on machine for more efficiency. Nevertheless, Atsushi estimates that he spends at least 50 hours per pair. In combination with top quality materials – for example, European hides from Weinheimer, Annonay and Charles F. Stead and both leather and heel stiffeners in leather – it’s definitely shoes of the highest level.

Slightly rounder last with a bit more space for the toes.

Heel stiffener in leather is prepared before lasting.

This is why the price is about €1,300 (13 300 NOK including VAT), which have to be said is quite affordable looking at what you get. Skomaker Dagestad have two RTW models now as a start, a full brogue oxford in mid brown and a black lazyman. Soon they will receive more models, and there’s also samples of a bunch of models which you may order as MTO, with no surcharge. You can also modify the last and make other modifications for small extras. More info on these options and pics of some available models available here (in Norwegian, use Google translate). Also, if you have the chance, don’t miss checking these out when Dagestad bring them to the Shoegazing Super Trunk Show in Stockholm on September 28.

Split toe derby, one of several models available as MTO with no upcharge.

Rubber soles are also offered if one wish. All pictures: Skomaker Dagestad