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creases

Yohei Fukuda bespoke semi brogues
In-depth

In-depth – Toe spring, heel height and creases

Many people think that a shoe’s toe spring, the height of the tip of the toe above the ground, and the heel height only affect how the shoe feels when walking and its appearance. But it also has a bearing on how much the shoe needs to be bent when walking, which can ultimately affect how prominent the creases becomes. I’ll explain this more in detail, and delve deeper into these topics.

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The picture

The picture – Healthy creases

Shoes crease, that’s a fact and everyone knows it, yet it’s likely the thing that dress shoe buyers obsess the most about. I’ve been writing several posts on the topic (links below) to give a better understanding on how and why shoes crease, and what’s healthy creases and what might not be. Shown on the photo here surely is an example of some very fine creasing on the Spanish leather.

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The tip

The tip – Place the creases

This is a technique that works best on cordovan shoes, but which also can be used for normal calf leather. It’s about simply guiding the leather how to crease by pressing two pens against it when bending the shoe for the first time. The aim is to gather the creases to where it is intended to be, in two lines at the shoe’s flex point.

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From the archive


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Buyer's guide - Oct. Tenth
Buyer's guide

Buyer’s guide – Oct. Tenth

One of the more established players that has emerged on the Chinese scene of men’s shoes in recent years is Oct. Tenth, the house brand of what’s known to many as the Xibao workshop. With the move to a new workshop location, a new website, and a new factory manager, they now enter the era of Oct. Tenth 2.0. Here’s a buyer’s guide to the brand, with a pair of Made to Measure derbies I have made as a base.

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