The tip – Don’t use waterproofing spray on regular smooth leather

One of the most common mistakes done when it comes to shoe care, if one look at the population as a whole, is the use of waterproofing spray also on full grain smooth leather. Yes, it do protects against water, but it also makes it difficult for the nourishing ingredients of shoe creams to penetrate the leather, which means the leather risks drying out. Learn more in this article.

Waterproofing sprays can be great to protect your suede, nubuck or textile footwear from wet conditions. They build a protective barrier on top of the material which keeps the water from penetrating the material. It’s great on those types of materials, since they don’t have any “built in protection”, although nowadays most suedes and some nubuck and textiles, are given waterproofing treatments in the tannery and / or in production. But waterproofing sprays improve the protection, and keeps it in good condition.

Waterproof sprayed nubuck. Picture: Real Men Real Style (Top picture: Sioux Shop)

For regular smooth full grain leather, the most commonly used type of leather for quality shoes and boots, as well as with most embossed grain leather, it’s a whole different story though. Here, one use the natural protective part of the animal’s hide, the grain layer. It’s the top part of the hides, there to protect the animal from the harsh conditions it normally withstands, and therefore with some incredibly strong natural capabilities. However, it do need help to become more waterproof. But not from waterproofing sprays.

If one keep the full grain part, as one do on full grain leather, you have a really strong part towards the outside fully naturally. Picture (modified by me): Mr. Lentz

First of all, yes, waterproofing sprays do protect also smooth leather or embossed grain leather from water. That’s why the natural feeling after one have used these products on the shoes and one can see that it repels water well, is that it’s all good. It’s also the reason why most shoe stores in the world – both brick & mortar and online – push their customers to use waterproofing sprays (that and the fact that they usually have good margins on them, and they last shorter than shoe cream and wax so they can sell more). Instant gratification – human beings are built to appreciate that.

The problem is in the long run. Full grain leathers needs to be nourished so that the hard top layer doesn’t dry out and crack. That’s why we use shoe creams and similar products which has oils that penetrates into the leather and keeps it well conditioned, as well as waxes that both nourish a bit, at least in some cases, and which also builds a protection and potentially a shine. If you have used waterproofing sprays on your regular leather footwear, these essential nourishing ingredients of a shoe cream or leather conditioner will be hindered to get into the leather.

Unfortunately it’s very common that people are taught to use waterproof spray also on full grain leather footwear. Picture: Thursday Boot’s

Yes, the solvents in the creams may remove some of the waterproofing spray, and yes, it varies between sprays (silicone ones are always to be avoided, for many reasons) and what creams one use for how big of a problem this is. But in general (unless properly cleaned ahead of every care session, which also means strain for the leather), waterproof sprayed leather will mean that shoe cream or conditioner will be hindered from doing one of its absolute main jobs – to nourish the leather. This means that albeit the shoes will be protected from water, which may cause damage to the leather, instead it risks to dry out “from the inside”, so to speak. I’ve learned this from both tannery people, cobblers and person’s developing shoe care.

Especially if you have fine high quality full grain leathers, which had little covering finishes from the tannery to hide imperfections, you have all the chance in the world to have leather that will last a really long time if conditioned and treated properly. Don’t destroy this with waterproofing sprays. Smooth leather should be protected with waxes, even if it’s not creating the same super protective layer as the sprays (apart from on a high shined toe cap or on leather stuffed with oils and waxes), together with the natural protective properties of the grain surface this works very well. Sure, there can be exceptions for various reasons, but in general, this is the way all should be taught to care for their full grain smooth leather shoes, instead of short-sighted versions with waterproofing spray.

Conditioner, shoe cream and wax polish, that’s what smooth full grain leather should be treated with.