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The Florentine based Japanese shoemaker Hidetaka Fukaya with the brand Il Micio has always been one to try out special things. This shoe with a unique patina done by the same technique as when one do paper marbling is certainly a really cool one that stands out.
The Italian shoemaker Calzoleria Carlino’s famous campaign where they offer exotics at no upcharge is back, and this year bigger and better than ever. For the whole of June one can order any type of exotics leather handmade shoes at the same price as calf. So not only alligator or crocodile, but other very special stuff, often vintage skins, like hippo, seal, capybara/carpincho, elephant, stingray and more.
My latest new pair is a bespoke seamless faux adelaide in a lovely medium brown suede, made by Catella Shoemaker. Shoes made to the absolute highest level possible. In this article there’s loads of photos as well as films of both the making and the final pair.
One of the most sought after bespoke shoemakers we have in the world is without a doubt TYE Shoemaker. For many years the only chance to get a pair was to visit them in Tokyo, since a few years they started doing trunk shows in Singapore, and now they are doing their first ever trunk show in New York on May 27-30.
Many bespoke shoemakers cut open fitting shoes to be able to assess certain things even better. Touch, feel and input from the customer may be the most important, but to gather extra data it can be good to get a view “inside”. In the case with this pair an extra feature of the cutting was used, where the maker Patrick Frei cut diagonal lines to let the fitting shoes expand to better evaluate how much needed to be added.
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Hear the Tokyo based shoemaker Seiji McCarthy answer questions from listeners and readers of Shoegazing. For example why there’s not more American bespoke shoemakers making classic American style shoes, how his workshop is set up, if lastmaking skill is affected by more makers offering handmade MTO shoes, and much more.
I’ve said it before, and I’ll likely say it again: few beat the Japanese bespoke shoemaker TYE when it comes to shoe design. They can do the craziest of things as well as really toned down stuff, but almost always in a unique way with a perfectly balanced design and pattern. This apron derby is no different.
UK shoemaker Deborah Carré is conducting one of the largest academic research projects on bespoke shoemaking in years. Her PhD explores the transmission of shoemaking skills since the 1850s, with historical and modern shoemaking competitions – mainly the World Championships of Shoemaking – playing a vital role. She is now seeking shoemakers to participate in her research by answering a survey and contributing further. Collectors of vintage handmade shoes are also invited to take part.
The ways to become a shoemaker has changed through the years, as education moved from the shoemaking firms who hunted for talents, to talents who are hunting for the possibility to learn shoemaking. Sort of. Hear bespoke shoemaker Sebastian Tarek with years of experience in teaching shoemaking at colleges and other places talk about the past, present and future of shoemaking education.
In the seventh World Championships of Shoemaking we have a chelsea boot as the model to be made. The final takes place at the London Super Trunk Show on May 9 2026. In the prize pool there are £6,000 (€6,900 / $8,100), handmade shoemaking awls, and a chance to be showcased in shoe stores around the world. Read of for all the info about the contest.
