This is certainly a complicated topic. Few things in the shoe world are so confused as how the waist and its edges are to be addressed correctly, where what once were one thing have transformed into something else and switched meaning with something third, and so on. Here I try to clarify it all.
Today the Chinese brand Yearn Shoemaker launched a new website aimed on the international market. Their very fine fully handmade shoes at prices starting from €340 now take a huge leap in accessibility, which now can be bought with about a weeks delivery time all over the world.
Buying shoes online from a maker one haven’t tried before is a challenge, and internet is full of size guides and questions and answers on sizing. Grayle is a new website that wants to be the one stop solution for all shoe sizing questions, by building the world’s largest database on shoe fit.
Split toes, especially split toe derbys, has seen a rise in popularity in recent years. The way to make the toe seam of this model vary a lot, from fully handmade stitches to fully machine-made, versions with different looks, versions that aren’t really split toes but with decoration seams, and so on. Here I show and explain most of the variants.
It’s one of the most common misconceptions in the world of quality footwear: that creases on the toe cap means something is wrong. That the shoes doesn’t fit, or are badly made, or other various explanations. In reality, it’s most likely nothing that’s wrong at all, just perfectly normal. Here I explain more.
When the Goodyear welted construction method became established in the later part of the 19th century, it revolutionised the manufacture of welted shoes and brought welted construction into the era of industrialism. Here’s a look at the birth and rise of the construction.
The amazing shoe pictured above looks like it could have been made in the 1920’s by a bespoke shoemaker in London’s Saint James district. The old school-looking aniline leather, the super-classic last shape, the muted yet perfect making, and so on. It’s not however, it’s a newly made sample shoe by Japanese bespoke maker Marquess.
Anyone interested in footwear will have come across a number of different tannery names in the marketing of the shoe companies’ products. Shoegazing goes through many of the main suppliers of materials for quality shoes, to give you a good overview of what, where and how things are made.
Zonkey Boot has been around for over a decade, yet still remains a bit of a hidden gem for many. It’s kind of a mystery to me, since it’s a brand with a distinct own character not really found from any other brand, making hand welted and Norvegese stitched shoes of excellent quality. Here’s a substantial review of a seriously cool green wholecut derby boot.
The New York-based shoe store Leffot has done an awesome collaboration with Edward Green, the legendary mill Fox Brothers and tailor Justo Gimeno. Using a number of Fox tweed fabrics for matching shoes, caps and jackets, including Edward Green Galway boots with shafts in the lovely fabrics.