There’s many countries in the world who has a quite large production of quality welted footwear, yet still fly under the radar for most. One of these is Indonesia. In this article I go through a number of the interesting makers, of which a majority use hand welted construction, still with prices starting at below €200.
Cheaney has more than doubled their turnover and earnings the past decade, after Jonathan and William Church took over the company and moved it away from private label production to producing shoes under its own name, and also selling these themselves to a larger extent. Hear about this topic, the Prada buyout of Church’s, Brexit and more in episode 10 of the Shoegazing Podcast.
Shoemakers are in general quite artistic and creative people, and it often shows also in other areas than the specific footwear. One such example is the shoe trees, where we can find awesome pieces made by bespoke makers and/or their shoe tree makers. Here’s a look at some of my favourites.
Above is a picture of what many people would call the shoe shelf of shoe shelves. Almost 200 shoes on one single wall, of course found in the shoe heaven that is the shoe department of Isetan Men’s in Tokyo, Japan.
In the middle of Paris, a stone’s throw from Champs Élysée one find not only Berluti’s large flagship store, but also their large workshop for bespoke shoes. A big, well-trimmed business where shoes of absolute world class are manufactured. Shoegazing paid a visit.
One of the most common unusual fit problems, to use a complicated expression, is that the shoes pinch on top of the big toes when walking in them. A not always permanent problem, thankfully, about why this is the case and about why and how to avoid the problem if it stays, is what today’s article is about.
It’s not every day new brands that make shoes in their own factory in British Northampton pops up. Newman & Regent manufactures Goodyear welted RTW/MTO shoes in the lower midrange price segment, and also offers factory-made bespoke for about €850.
It’s becoming a tradition that I once a year highlight the news that has emerged in the market of quality sneakers. This isn’t Shoegazing’s focus area, but the interest is great, and as the quality of many of the sneakers has increased and now as more and more cobblers are offering resoling of the so-called Margom sole types, they have parts in common with classic quality shoes.
This old bespoke sample above from George Cleverley is a nice example of how them, and some earlier British makers like Nicolaus Tuczek, made their bottoms back in the days. A slim, very asymmetrical waist and a small, short heel with a heavily curved breast (the heel part facing front) and only brass nails in the back.
The Asian quality shoe industry, outside Japan, is much more evolved than what most Westerners tend to believe. And more is happening – fast. In this episode, we hear shoe expert Robin Chang, founder of the Taiwanese shoe store Oak Room, talk about Asian-made classic shoes.