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Report - John Lobb Paris' factory

Report – John Lobb Paris’ factory

It is one of Northampton's most reputable shoe factories, producing shoes for what's probably the strongest brand. Shoegazing visited John ...
Report - Berluti's bespoke workshop

Report – Berluti’s bespoke workshop

In the middle of Paris, a stone's throw from Champs Élysée one find not only Berluti's large flagship store, but ...
Report - Isetan Men's shoe department

Report – Isetan Men’s shoe department

Isetan Men's shoe department is almost legendary among shoe interested men. It's for a good reason. Here you find the ...
Report - Main-d'Or / Eiji Murata

Report – Main-d’Or / Eiji Murata

He has produced some of the world's finest shoes for over 12 years, he is highly praised by the bespoke shoemaking ...
Report - Nicholas Templeman

Report – Nicholas Templeman

He had what many would call a dream job as lastmaker at John Lobb in London, but wanted more and left ...
Report - Stefano Bemer

Report – Stefano Bemer

Stefano Bemer has in recent years become an increasingly important player in the Italian classic shoe sphere, with a more ...
Report - Marquess Shoemaker

Report – Marquess Shoemaker

Marquess is one of the brightest stars on the growing Japanese bespoke shoe heaven. When I visited Tokyo the past fall ...
Report - Loake factory visit

Report – Loake factory visit

In old industrial neighbourhoods in the slightly rough town of Kettering in eastern Northamptonshire, one of England's largest manufacturers of ...
Report - Micam 2020

Report – Micam 2020

Last week, the winter edition of the world's largest shoe fair, Micam, was held in Milan, Italy. Shoegazing was there, ...
Report - Alte Art

Report – Alte Art

Alte Art is relatively unknown, even though one founder is one of the pioneers of the thriving Japanese bespoke shoe ...
Report - Bespoke shoemaker Janne Melkersson

Report – Bespoke shoemaker Janne Melkersson

He has been working with shoes since 1977, hosts shoemaking courses for people from all over the world, and he ...
Report - Saphir factory visit

Report – Saphir factory visit

Saphir is perhaps the world's most renowned manufacturer of shoe care products, with a history that goes back over 100 ...

 

All reports

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Review - Zonkey Boot 231 Marco in green shrunken bull

Review – Zonkey Boot 231 Marco in green shrunken bull

Zonkey Boot has been around for over a decade, yet still remains a bit of a hidden gem for many ...
Review - Meermin 101482 Tan Country Calf

Review – Meermin 101482 Tan Country Calf

The Spanish brand Meermin has been grown rapidly since they launched their brand in the European and US market a few ...
Review - Orban's Oxford Soho Dark brown

Review – Orban’s Oxford Soho Dark brown

The French brand Orban's is an interesting new actor with a some nice lasts and models and a low price tag ...
Review - Cheaney Imperial Holyrood Bronzed Espresso

Review – Cheaney Imperial Holyrood Bronzed Espresso

Cheaney is one of the major manufacturers in Northampton, England, and a few years ago they launched a new top line ...
Review - Carlos Santos 7201 Braga Cognac

Review – Carlos Santos 7201 Braga Cognac

Portuguese Carlos Santos is a manufacturer which has buzzed a little under the surface for many years, but never really been ...
Review - Heschung Crocus Anilcalf café

Review – Heschung Crocus Anilcalf café

Heschung is one of the classic French brands of quality shoes, with their own distinct style. Here's a substantial review of ...
Review - Crownhill Shoes The Stewart

Review – Crownhill Shoes The Stewart

Spanish Crownhill Shoes is one of many new players in the lower price segment of classic quality shoes. They compete ...
Review - Miyagi Kogyo Semi Brogue Derby Old Snuff

Review – Miyagi Kogyo Semi Brogue Derby Old Snuff

One of the Japanese RTW brands that are famous also outside their home country is Miyagi Kogyo. The first retailer ...
Review - Loake 1880 Export Grade Hanover Onyx Black

Review – Loake 1880 Export Grade Hanover Onyx Black

About 1.5 years ago, British Loake launched its new top range 1880 Export Grade. A range in the lower mid-range ...
Review - Boot Black shoe care products

Review – Boot Black shoe care products

Often when the Japanese do things they do it properly. That also goes for shoe care products, where ambitious Boot ...
Review - Master Shoemakers by Gary Tok

Review – Master Shoemakers by Gary Tok

New books about classic men's style show up every now and then, but books solely on classic shoes are much ...

 

All reviews

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Buyer's guide - Low-priced quality shoes

Buyer’s guide – Low-priced quality shoes

Here's an updated version of one of the most popular articles on Shoegazing. A comprehensive list with quality shoes for ...
Buyer's guide - Bespoke prices

Buyer’s guide – Bespoke prices

For those who want to get an overview of the prices among different manufacturers of bespoke shoes, a lot of ...
Buyer's guide - Acme Shoemaker

Buyer’s guide – Acme Shoemaker

One of the most interesting new brands that's been introduced lately is Acme Shoemaker. Based in Beijing, they are a ...
Buyer's guide - Hiro Yanagimachi

Buyer’s guide – Hiro Yanagimachi

Hiro Yanagimachi is one of the pioneers of the new wave of Japanese bespoke shoemakers which established themselves in the ...
Buyer's guide - Yohei Fukuda

Buyer’s guide – Yohei Fukuda

Yohei Fukuda is one of the most acclaimed Japanese bespoke shoemakers today, and many shoe interested men have drooled over ...
Buyer's guide - Main d'Or

Buyer’s guide – Main d’Or

Eiji Murata, the man behind the brand Main d'Or, is one of the highest rated bespoke shoe makers in the ...
Buyer's guide - Stores in London

Buyer’s guide – Stores in London

London is one of the best cities in the world for those interested in classic quality shoes. The capital of ...
Buyer's guide - Indonesian quality shoes

Buyer’s guide – Indonesian quality shoes

There's many countries in the world who has a quite large production of quality welted footwear, yet still fly under ...

 

All buyer’s guides

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Guide - Shoe care brands

Guide – Shoe care brands

The amount of good quality shoe care brands available are more than in a long time, and a lot of ...
Guide - Waist definitions

Guide – Waist definitions

This is certainly a complicated topic. Few things in the shoe world are as confused as how the waist and ...
Guide - Shoe leather tanneries

Guide – Shoe leather tanneries

Anyone interested in footwear will have come across a number of different tannery names in the marketing of the shoe ...
Guide - How to prevent and remove mould from leather shoes

Guide – How to prevent and remove mould from leather shoes

The formation of mould on leather shoes is a common problem especially in some parts of the world during some ...
Shoe care and shoe shining - The complete guide

Shoe care and shoe shining – The complete guide

A detailed step by step shoe care guide with lots of information on how and why you should take care ...
Guide - Methods of shoe construction

Guide – Methods of shoe construction

There are of course several different methods of construction to put together a shoe. In this article all the most ...
Guide - Shoe sizes

Guide – Shoe sizes

Most people have a fairly decent know how about how shoe sizes works, the difference between for example the European scale and the ...
Guide - Base wardrobe with quality shoes

Guide – Base wardrobe with quality shoes

In addition to shoe care, the most common questions I get is about purchases for those who have just started ...
Guide - Resoling and re-heeling

Guide – Resoling and re-heeling

Traditionally constructed shoes, not least stitched ones, are almost always marketed with emphasis on the possibilities of resoling and repairing ...
Guide - Simple corrections of fit

Guide – Simple corrections of fit

Due to the fact that a vast majority of the shoes sold are Ready to Wear, and many of them ...
Guide - Toe shapes

Guide – Toe shapes

How the toe is designed is perhaps the most important aesthetic part on a shoe. With its position at the ...
Guide - Shoe brushes

Guide – Shoe brushes

One always talk about how much easier things are with good tools, and this also applies to shoe care and ...
Guide - Anatomy of the foot

Guide – Anatomy of the foot

Understanding foot structure and the various terms used helps a lot when you're truing to find the right fit on RTW ...
Guide - My shoe collection 6

Guide – My shoe collection 6

Once again time for a review of my shoe collection at its current state - one of the most asked ...

 

All guides

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In-depth - Creases on the toe cap

In-depth – Creases on the toe cap

It's one of the most common misconceptions in the world of quality footwear: that creases on the toe cap means ...
In-depth - All about sole and heel edges

In-depth – All about sole and heel edges

Few things say so much about the actual quality of the making on a pair of welted shoes as the ...
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In depth – Disassembly of shoes

Continuing on the theme of what distinguishes shoes in different price ranges, this time in a proper in-depth manner. Together ...
In-depth - How shoes crease

In-depth – How shoes crease

After once again receiving questions from readers about this subject this week, I felt it might be time to write ...
In-depth - RTW and fit

In-depth – RTW and fit

Good fit is the single most important feature of a shoe, even so, a lot of people wear shoes that fits quite ...
In-depth - The downside of shell cordovan

In-depth – The downside of shell cordovan

Shell cordovan is a loved material by many, with its special characteristics and durability. However, there's a few downsides of ...
In-depth - Leather quality vs leather properties

In-depth – Leather quality vs leather properties

To judge leather quality is a science of its own, and many times people confuse leather quality with specific properties ...
In depth - Feet changes

In depth – Feet changes

I often talk about that fit is the single most important thing when it comes to shoes. An aggravating factor ...
The tools from Yohei Fukuda brother again, as replicas of ancient tools Yohei had, the image can be enlarged. In the picture below you can see what the top fummeln for waistborder can achieve. Picture: Yohei Fukuda

In-depth – The tools’ importance

Just like the fact that good machines are extremely important for shoe factories are good tools of great importance for ...
In depth - What affects how shoes are stretched nr. 2

In depth – What affects how shoes are stretched nr. 2

Some time ago I wrote a post about the different things that affect how shoes will stretch on the Swedish ...
In-depth - How the colour of leather vary

In-depth – How the colour of leather vary

One difficulty that the growing online retailing of shoes poses for both stores and customers is the rendering of the ...
In-depth - Why shoes can be copied

In-depth – Why shoes can be copied

Every manufacturer of quality shoes has their versions of the classic models - plain cap toe oxford, semi brogues, adelaides, ...
In-depth - Feet shapes around the world

In-depth – Feet shapes around the world

Just as the way people look varies around the world, people's feet also are different depending on where you come ...

 

All in depth articles

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Reflection - The actual time it takes to make welted shoes

Reflection – The actual time it takes to make welted shoes

The tougher the competition gets - the more doubtful the marketing gets. One of the things that brands tend to ...
Reflection - A golden age for quality shoes

Reflection – A golden age for quality shoes

People often talk about how things were better before, and about the many challenges around today for the quality shoe ...
Reflection - Don't be fooled by the "no middlemen" marketing

Reflection – Don’t be fooled by the “no middlemen” marketing

An increasing amount of new brands are introduced which all market themselves as offering shoes comparable to much higher-priced shoes, ...
Reflection - Is biofabricated leather the future?

Reflection – Is biofabricated leather the future?

Imagine that the raw material for your future leather shoes is not from animals, but grown in large laboratories. Already ...
Reflection - Improve sustainability

Reflection – Improve sustainability

The world of quality shoes is in general doing well in many regards when it comes to being sustainable and ...

 

All reflections

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The tip - Reasons for heel slippage, and the solutions

The tip – Reasons for heel slippage, and the solutions

Heel slippage when walking is one of the more common problems people experience with new shoes. It can be caused ...
The tip - Nylon stockings to regain the shine

The tip – Nylon stockings to regain the shine

Using old deposited pantyhose from your girlfriend/wife to polish up the last shine on your shoes after they've had some ...
The tip - Stretch shoes yourself

The tip – Stretch shoes yourself

The subject of stretching shoes has been featured several times here on the blog, it's really the only way to make small shoes ...
The tip - Place the creases

The tip – Place the creases

This is a technique that works best on cordovan shoes, but which also can be used for normal calf leather. It's ...
The tip - How to avoid and fix stains from hand sanitisers

The tip – How to avoid and fix stains from hand sanitisers

When hand sanitisers are used to a much larger extent than pre-covid, we now see an increasing amount of shoes ...
The tip - Space in front of the toes

The tip – Space in front of the toes

Many misconceptions about what space you "should" have in front of your toes in shoes are spread and believed in ...
The tip - Fix loose loafers with tongue pads

The tip – Fix loose loafers with tongue pads

Loafers are, as most know, always more difficult to get a good fit on, since you have no opportunity to ...
The tip - Flush rubber toe taps

The tip – Flush rubber toe taps

The toe on the front of the sole always down faster than the rest of the sole, and for some ...
The tip - Use removable insoles of the correct material

The tip – Use removable insoles of the correct material

A nice thing with quality of shoes is that they have insoles of leather that allows the feet to breathe ...
The tip - Let shoes dry laying down

The tip – Let shoes dry laying down

I've written about this before in other shoe care articles, that it's good to let wet shoes dry lying on ...
The tip - Avoid pinched big toes

The tip – Avoid pinched big toes

One of the most common unusual fit problems, to use a complicated expression, is that the shoes pinch on top ...

 

All tips

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