I often get questions from people who choose between two sizes in a pair of shoes, one is a bit tight and the other is slightly spacious. As a rule of thumb, I always answer that they should go on the larger size. Here I explain why.

 

Usually, it’s people who ordered two different sizes at online purchases, or those who tried out two in the store but were not satisfied with the staff’s knowledge and advice, often it is something like the smaller size is pinch somewhere and are a bit snug, while the other size is slightly big at places. The question they ask is then whether they should go on the smaller one, thinking that it will be stretched with wear and get well over time, or if you they should go on the larger one and maybe put in a thin insole. Or similar.

Nice full brogues from Alfred Sargent that I had a few years ago. They were tight from the start, and I would replace them with the size bigger immediately.

A pair of nice full brogues from Alfred Sargent that I had a few years ago. They were tight from the start, and I should have replaced them with the larger size immediately.

As I said, I think that in the vast majority of cases you should go with the larger size. There are many reasons for it, but just to name a few of the most important ones, it’s a very limited amount of time when you try it in store, or even at home, too, without doing any walking worth mentioning. In regular use, the shoes will always feel tighter, especially when you walk in them a bit longer, and the places a shoe is tight can be experienced as really uncomfortable. Of course they can be stretched, but you’re not sure it will be enough, and ideally shoes should not be perceived as tight even when they are brand new. The larger size may be a bit big in some place, but as I’ve been writing in other contexts, a shoe that is bigger will not be stretched as much as tight shoes, since the leather is not exposed to the same pressure. And it’s much easier to correct the fit on shoes that are a bit big, but with shoes that are tight, there is only one (in principle) way to correct fit being, which is stretching.