A very common issue on shoes, both new and used ones, is that the half sock lining that is placed inside the shoe is coming loose so you get a flap that can be annoying. Here I explain why you have half sock linings to begin with, the reason that they often come loose, and how you easily can solve it.
Why are half sock linings used?
For some, it makes no sense why one have these half length (or a bit shorter or longer, it can vary a bit but edge is to be placed somewhere under the arch) thin sock linings placed inside most welted shoes, as well as in some cases for other constructions like Blake, Blake/Rapid, Stitchdown and similar. Why a sock lining at all? Why not a full sock lining?
All the constructions mentioned above have one thing in common, and that is that they have full vegetable tanned leather insoles as base of the shoe (if not some shortcut like having the back half in paperboard and only front half in leather, which actually is a relatively common and shitty way to get off a couple of euros cheaper that one see in lower priced especially Blake stitched shoes). And the pro with these relatively thick leather insoles is that they can absorb a lot of moisture, which you inevitably will have in all shoes, with the footbeds being one of the areas with the highest amount of sweat glands of the entire body.
How a shoe can look under the sock lining, which should explain why you want to have it covered. Picture: Fu Pei
In shoes with heels, you need to have a sock lining to cover nail holes in the heel area, and since many decades it’s also been standard to put in a thin foam pad under the heel on factory-made shoes, also used by some bespoke shoemakers, for increased comfort. Hence, a sock lining. But the foam pad and the cement used to attach the leather sock lining blocks moisture, so most of the fine moisture absorbing properties of the thick insole would disappear, leaving only the millimeter thin sock lining left. Hence, one do a half sock lining, so that you have the good absorption under the front footbed where also most sweat glands are located.
An Gaziano & Girling shoe cut in half, where you can see the sock liner and foam cushioning covering the back part of the relatively thick, veg tanned leather insole. Picture: Bespoke Unit
So, a full sock lining means less moisture absorption, same with the more and more common full foam cushioning insole inserts used over the base insole, adding to the other issue of these that I’ve written about in this article. Essentially, the shoes will be warmer and your feet / socks will become more moist in them.
What’s the reason for half sock linings coming loose?
When you attach sock linings, the factory or shoemaker use a glue that is strong, but not super strong. You need to be able to remove this for various repairs, so it can’t be attached more or less permanent. Then, you want to put the adhesive on very thin, to not get an uneven surface, and especially towards the edges since you don’t want glue to be pressed out so that you have a bad looking and in worse case a smear that can create discomfort, have socks get stuck on etc. Given the above, you work with small margins towards the front edge of the sock lining.
A common thing to see, with the edge of the sock lining having come loose and become bent up after foot is removed. Picture (also top image): Reddit / Ok_Concept_8478
This means that when you then start using a shoe it’s very common that the front part of the sock lining, especially the corners, can be pulled off and come lose when you remove your feet. Sometimes of course it happens at a later stake, when you’ve dragged your feet over the edge enough times for it to come off, but it’s common that it appears early. Especially on for example lace-up boots or loafers where one may have to struggle a bit to get the foot out.
Sure, it’s likely to be a bit more common on shoes at a lower price point, given that everything is done a bit quicker, also attaching the sock lining, which leads to a bit higher risk of not adding just the right amount of glue and pressing it perfectly when attaching the sock lining. But I’ve had sock linings come loose on shoes from real high-end bespoke shoes as well. Given the small margins I describe above, it’s just a thing that sometimes will occur.
How to fix sock linings that have come loose
Now that we know the reasons for why we often have edges of sock linings peeling, and accept that, how do we solve it if appears? Luckily, it’s an easy thing. In some cases, there’s enough adhesives left so if you press it down firmly and let it stay for a bit it can even stick well enough so you don’t have to do more than that.
A shorter sock lining, properly attached at the front.
But usually you need to add new glue. Best will always be to take them to a cobbler and have it sorted professionally, it’s a quick work that they often can do on site so you don’t even have to leave your shoes there, and it doesn’t cost much. They’ve done this loads of times before.
You can also do it yourself, with a little bit of leather glue. If you use stronger ones, use a very small amount in just one spot, so you don’t risk having problems getting it off if needed. But if you learn to do this it’s literally a one minute job to solve.
