The nappy surface of suede is very different from regular smooth leather, and people often seem to have less knowledge about some of its special characteristics. Two such things are the light streaks that commonly appear where the shoes bend, and how the nap can become completely flat after, for example, lying on its side in a shoe box. Here we explain why this happens and what you can do about it.
Light streaks where the shoes bend
One thing that can worry owners of new suede shoes is when light-coloured streaks start to appear across the vamp, usually exactly where the shoe bends when walking. On darker suede in particular, these streaks can become quite noticeable.
An example of light coloured streaks on suede shoes, where they bend when walking.
In most cases, there is nothing wrong with the suede. What you see is mainly a change in the direction and structure of the nap, and in some cases pigments can come lose a bit. When the shoe bends, the fibres are repeatedly pushed, pulled and compressed in different directions. This makes them reflect light differently, which can make the creases appear considerably lighter than the surrounding areas.
This is a normal characteristic of suede, just as creasing is a normal characteristic of smooth leather. How visible the streaks become varies depending on the type of suede, its colour, the construction and the fit of the shoe, and how the shoe bends on your foot. Sometimes one don’t get streaks at all, sometimes you get it after just a couple of wears.
Often, the streaks can be reduced or fully removed simply by brushing the suede. Use a good suede brush and work the nap in different directions, with some extra attention to the lighter areas. This lifts and separates the fibres again and usually makes the colour look more even.
In most cases one can just brush the suede and the streaks are removed, at least temporary.
Barely visible. It usually appears in the same place again after some wear though, since the fibres are compressed again in the same way.
For more stubborn streaks, it can help to first lightly dampen the area with water or use a suede cleaner, let the shoes dry, and then brush them thoroughly. A renovating suede spray in a matching colour can also be used if the colour itself has faded over time, and in some cases where pigments has come off in the crease, but for ordinary light streaks at the creases this is normally not necessary. And it’s common that it doesn’t disappear fully, and that it comes back again with use also after such processes. Also that doesn’t mean the suede is bad normally. I have these types of streaks on my €100 suede sneakers, I have it on some of my finest €7,000 bespoke shoes.
When the suede has become completely flat
Another phenomenon can occur before you have even worn the shoes. A pair of suede shoes may have been lying on its side in the shoe box during storage or transport, with one part of the upper pressed against the box or the other shoe, or similar. When you open the box, an area of the suede can look completely smooth, darker or lighter, and very different from the rest of the shoe.
Again, this usually looks much worse than it actually is. The suede has not been damaged, the nap has simply been compressed. Since the fibres are lying flat instead of standing up, they reflect light differently and can almost give the impression that the suede has lost its texture altogether.
An example of a brand new pair of suede shoes where the right one has had the suede at the toe compressed in shipping.
The solution is normally straightforward. Brush the compressed area thoroughly with a suede brush, working in several directions. If brushing alone isn’t enough, lightly moistening the area can help the fibres regain their shape. Let the suede dry naturally and then brush it again. Then suede will always vary in looks over the shoe a bit, that’s part of the beauty with it.
Suede changes appearance, and that’s normal
One reason these things can seem alarming is that suede reacts to touch, pressure and movement much more visibly than smooth leather. Simply running your hand over the surface usually makes an area look lighter or darker depending on which direction the nap is pointing.
This is also part of what gives suede its character. A good suede will change slightly with wear, but regular brushing keeps the nap raised, removes dust and dirt, and helps maintain an even appearance. Together with occasional use of a suede cleaner, renovating and waterproofing sprays, you’ll have shoes that will be great for a long time.
As all proper types of leather suede also has the beauty of being able to be revived again.
Hi Jesper, thanks for this great article. Just curious as you mentioned ‘will be great for a long time’ at the end, what is the practical life span of dressy suede shoe, comparing to that of smooth leather? I am under the impression that smooth leather shoes may last longer, because they are able to be waxed and thus protected in advanced, and in case the leather is damaged due to cut or abrasion, there are more ways to fix or conceal e.g. resin. The appearance of suede seems impossible to be restored if the nap is damaged.
Mark: Thanks! One can’t really say. Cheaper split suede will last shorter than great full grain calf, but a proper full reverse calf will last longer than a thin so,so smooth calf leather. Then if you have thicker cow leather, a thick rough out suede can last really long as can a thick good smooth cow leather.
Waterproofing sprays protect suede really well against a lot of issues, then if you smash them into stuff and destroy the nap it’s hard to fix, but can also be the case for smooth calf, depending on the damage. I don’t think one can say that one leather type has a longer lifespan than the other if one just compare suede to smooth leather.