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Last month samples from eight different bespoke shoemakers were gathered at Gallery Quadro in central Tokyo, in ambition to open up for interest from a new group of people. Shoegazing visited the reception, and talked with a few of the shoemakers exhibiting: Nayuta Takahashi and Kiyo Uda who also run Tweed & Mouth, and Ken Hishinuma of Khish the Work.
This June the summer edition of the men’s fashion fair Pitti Uomo took place in Florence, the first proper one since the pandemic hit. Shoegazing was there and checked out a bunch of the shoe exhibitors, here’s a summary of what could be found and some news from talks with brand representatives, who witness on the positive trend the quality footwear sector is seeing.
The bespoke shoemaker Akira Tani, from Japan but based in Italy, has a lot of things that point towards soon being one of the most hyped makers in the industry: A slightly more casual house style highly suitable for how more and more people dress today, some of the best finishing in the world, and a price tag of just €2,300 (including VAT) for full bespoke. Shoegazing visited him in Florence.
One of several Japanese manufacturers of really nice midrange welted shoes is the Vinaseiko factory, with their main brand Perfetto plus Kanpekina and Fugashin. It’s one example of a company working successfully with a joint factory in Southeast Asia to produce shoes with a great quality-price ratio. Shoegazing has paid it a visit.
The most famous, prestigious and formal shoemaking education in the world is Les Compagnons du Devoir et du Tour de France, which most of the famous names in French bespoke shoemaking has been through. A journey which takes the trainee to a number of different workshops with the aim to develop both the person and of course their craft. Shoegazing sat down with compagnons trainee Pierre-Baptiste L’Hospital to learn more about this traditional shoemaking education.
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Gerberei Martin is perhaps the oldest still existing tannery in the world, founded in 1645, and run by the same family ever since. They make the most traditional oak bark tanned sole leather around, with at least 24 months in the pits resulting in extremely durable leather soles, and have a highly interesting old-school approach to the whole business. Shoegazing paid them a visit.
Finally, after several delays due to the pandemic, I’ve now been able to travel to Freiburg, Germany, and the Patrick Frei workshop, and the progress of my bespoke pair from them can now progress. In this article we’ll follow the fitting, modifications of the last, and second fitting.
One of the most praised Indonesian bootmakers – Midas Bootmaker – has collaborated with the Swedish store Skolyx on the first RTW collection ever for the brand. Hand lasted, hand welted, handmade sole stitch (even for rubber soles), hand built heels, with real leather toe and heel stiffeners – serious craftsmanship now easily accessible widely.
One of the many Japanese bespoke shoemakers who’ve made an impact in recent years is Yuigo Hayano and his brand Bespoke Shoe Works. He has almost 15 years in the industry though, working both in factories and in bespoke workshops, and have trained both in Japan and England. His very well-made bespoke shoes are often called among the best classic British bespoke shoes you can get – just made in Japan.
The bespoke workshop of John Lobb Paris is a legendary place for shoe aficionados, known to be one of the largest and most well-trimmed shoemaking workshops in the world. Everything is done in-house in the 600 square meters large premises on Rue de Mogador in the heart of Paris. Shoegazing paid it a visit.
