It’s not often that men’s footwear giant Allen Edmonds introduce new ranges of welted shoes, but this week the launched the new top line Reserve. Better leathers, a new last and some hand finishing details for this new American-made range which consists of four new models in different leather options.
Allen Edmonds is still one of the largest producers of Goodyear welted shoes in the world. Even if a higher percentage of their sales in recent years comes from more basically constructed shoes, made abroad in for example their factory in India, the range of Goodyear welted dress focused shoes and boots produced in Port Washington, Wisconsin, is still an important part of their business.
During the last decade, basically between 2011 and 2020, Allen Edmonds had a top range called Independence. It had closer cut soles, tighter stitching, neater finishing and better upper and lining leathers than the main line. Especially in the first rounds of the range was praised, they later had a bit more issues with things like bleeding lining leather and quality control, but among AE fans it was always appreciated. Price was considered relatively high though, and a few years ago they discontinued the range. Now, it’s time for a new round of elevated Allen Edmonds.
Reserve are made on a modified version of the 65 last.
This week they introduced the Reserve collection. Initially four models – a plain toe derby called Maxwell, the Mason longwing derby, Murray quarter brogue oxford and Maddox longwing boot – offered in various leather alternatives, like black, chilli, walnut and navy calf where most have a hand finished burnishing. The PTB also comes in a luxurious crocodile version. They have 360° storm welts, double leather sole with painted waists, slight fudging, and finer leather selection than the regular welted shoes.
Longwing in for colour options.
The last used is a development of the 65 last, which they call Reserve. Since many years AE have relocated their upper making of the welted shoes to the Dominican Republic, with only exceptions being the Shell Cordovan shoes and the previous top range Independence, if I got my facts straight. It’s not fully clear, but as I understand it the Reserve models are also made entirely in the USA.
Price is around $800 (€720), so a bit less than double the standard range, and almost the same as their regular Shell Cordovan models. Exception of course is the crocodile version that costs $3,000 (€2,700).
Crocodile.
I’ve known about a new upcoming AE top range for a while, and to be honest I was hoping for an even larger distinction to the regular welted range. They state that “it’s the highest quality shoes we’ve ever made”, and I know marketing department has to spin things, but well let’s just conclude that this isn’t correct (just take a look at these 1960’s full brogues and you get my point). Nonetheless, it’s highly positive that a brand like Allen Edmonds also continues to develop the side with classic welted footwear and want to do better things, and I really hope it will find its customers.
The Murray Oxford in Walnut. All pictures: Allen Edmonds
Sorry but this is a HUGE dissapointment. $800USD for GY welted, open channel shoes is not “reading the room”. Their customer isn’t buying an $800 AE. And someone like me who moved away from AE more than a decade ago won’t touch this new AE line. I can go buy TLB Artista for $400. And the insulting part of this launch is a specific description of what justifies the extra cost.
I have to agree with Michael. Not only are these insanely overpriced, they are also extremely hideous. I have no clue what their design team was thinking. How does a stormwelted Oxford even make any sense? Imo it shows how far they are removed from making actually good shoes and whoever buys these must have no clue what other shoes are out there. Especially in this price range!
Michael and Teekay: I can understand your point. It is definitely a high price, and looking solely a spec you surely can get better at that price. Here one have to take other values into account, like an all American-made shoe, which has value to some. In a way I can see it’s tricky for a brand like AE, if they raise prices, they get shit from customers, if quality decline, they get shit from customers, if they move production to lower wage countries to keep prices down, they get shit from customers, if they don’t do anything and end up losing money, they get shit from the owners, etc.
I think it’s just a total package Jesper. I have nothing personal against the brand. They were the first true quality dress shoes I ever owned. And I was a loyal customer for many years until I just found them to be uncomfortable. I actually liked the independence line and don’t understand why they discontinued it. I think the last shape on these shoes is actually OK. It looks a little bit better than the traditional mediocre last. It actually looks like it has a bit more shape to it. But if you’re gonna charge $800 and try to sell me on something that’s higher value, then do things to it that actually give that perceived value. Why are they selling an $800 shoe with open channels stitching on the sole? Nothing on their website really articulates why this issue is 2 to 3 times more expensive than their regular shoes.
Michael: Yeah agree they could be clearer about the specifications and everything.