This old bespoke sample above from George Cleverley is a nice example of how them, and some earlier British makers like Nicolaus Tuczek, made their bottoms back in the days. A slim, very asymmetrical waist and a small, short heel with a heavily curved breast (the heel part facing front) and only brass nails in the back.
It certainly has a neat aesthetics going. Nowadays it’s more common with a bit larger heel and slightly more symmetrical waist, where the outside is brought in a bit more. To my understanding, if done correctly both versions of waists are solid and good as far as goes construction-wise goes, it’s down to aesthetics. Today that look isn’t favoured, but maybe it will come back in the future.
Nice, I like the aesthetic. Do you know how the asymmetric waist was achieved? I assume the shank was wooden and shaped/skewed to produce the asymmetry?
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Anthony Jones: It’s no difference to make this type of waists than other slim ones. It’s all down to how you shape the insole, and then you may use any material for the shank, which usually is covered with leather then for the bevelling.