This old bespoke sample above from George Cleverley is a nice example of how them, and some earlier British makers like Nicolaus Tuczek, made their bottoms back in the days. A slim, very asymmetrical waist and a small, short heel with a heavily curved breast (the heel part facing front) and only brass nails in the back.


It certainly has a neat aesthetics going. Nowadays it’s more common with a bit larger heel and slightly more symmetrical waist, where the outside is brought in a bit more. To my understanding, if done correctly both versions of waists are solid and good as far as goes construction-wise goes, it’s down to aesthetics. Today that look isn’t favoured, but maybe it will come back in the future.