This week I received my sixth pair from the Japanese bespoke shoemaker Yohei Fukuda. A seamless wholecut in a stunning burgundy patina, which really enhances the magnificent shape of Fukuda’s chiseled last. Here’s lots of pictures plus a film showcasing the beauties.
Yohei Fukuda is a known name for most shoe interested men (if you want to know more here’s a report and here’s a buyer’s guide), one of the most well-renowned bespoke shoemakers in the world. I’ve been a customer for many years, this week I received my sixth pair from him. The shoes are a pair of seamless wholecut oxfords, where a full piece of leather is pulled over the last and then the opening is cut open afterwards. A difficult model to make, which has grown in popularity in recent years. Yohei Fukuda just started offering them.
These shoes are superbly well crafted as always, made on my bespoke lasts with a single leather sole, 12 spi (stitches per inch) sole stitch, bevelled waist, and a deep burgundy patina made by Nobuaki Fujisawa of FG Trente / Floriwonne, who Fukuda collaborates with for patina. Surely a pair of serious head turners, below loads of photos of them, and at the bottom a movie.
Very nice wholecuts!
What a Christmas present!
What are your thoughts about how closely the shoe lacing sections should close? Now it is like a narrow “V”. Would it be even nicer with an “I” shape?
Jesper – Those are… very nice indeed. That little bit of patina work at the instep works very well as an extra little decoration.
To Sigurd – I think oxfords generally look a bit better with a slight v-gap in the lacing. The proportions can look a bit strange with no gap at all – sort of “squeezed in”
Sigurd: Thank you very much! I never want my gap at the laces to close fully, when new should ideally be between 1,5-0,5 cm so you have some give when the shoes stretch, and when worn in should always have at least a few mm left so there’s no risk that you pull them completely tight and can’t hold the foot in place properly.
Sam: Thanks a lot! Yeah, patina is lovely made.
Oh my giddy aunt!! Jesper, you’ve reached shoe Nirvana/shoe perfection (or as close to perfection as is possible on the earth?)….very, very nice indeed.
Aha, Jepser, that is a very logical way to haev some distance when new and then it can stretch.
Thanks!
Yes, awesome patina!
What leather? Baby calf?
Anthony Jones: Thank you! They are truly great.
Sigurd: They are made in a regular crust calf leather.
These would be difficult to wear. I think I would get a glass case
and put them up on a shelf in my office to look at. =)
Congratulations. Truly a work of art!
Marcus: It would be boring just to have them on display 🙂 Thanks!
Thank you for sharing these beautiful photos of a work of art. I feel ten feet tall just knowing they exist, can’t imagine what it’s like to wear them. Brilliant!
Z Lee: Thanks a lot!
Hi Jesper, congratulations on the fabulous shoes!!
Btw, I notice that all your Yohei Fukuda shoes are chisel lasted and all your Main d’or shoes are round lasted. Is there any particular reason of that?
YW: Thanks a lot!
Well yes, I have one toe shape from each of the bespoke shoemakers I order from, so chiseled toe from Fukuda, round toe from Main d’Or, almond toe from Hiro Yanagimachi, and soft chiseled toe from Gaziano & Girling / Catella Shoemakers (the latter now going forward, since I will follow Daniel Wegan instead of using G&G now).
Maybe a weird question, but what “house shoe” do you use?
I’m thinking of buying the new yanko belgians that look awesome. Do you think it’s out of place?
Fernando: I don’t use house shoes, it’s very uncommon in Sweden. But I know a few others who have used Yanko’s Belgian loafers as that, and think they suit well, I can sure see why as they are really comfy and informal.
How interesting. Dont your feet get cold? Thank you for the recommendation
Fernando: Since it’s a cold country, we have excellent isolation and heating systems in the houses. So no, no problem with cold feet (and we do wear socks) 🙂
Jesper
Great photos of beautiful shoes. What are your thoughts about how YF ready to wear shoes compare in terms of fit, finishing, and materials to SB tradizione range?