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Hear the Tokyo based shoemaker Seiji McCarthy answer questions from listeners and readers of Shoegazing. For example why there’s not more American bespoke shoemakers making classic American style shoes, how his workshop is set up, if lastmaking skill is affected by more makers offering handmade MTO shoes, and much more.
Boot Black is the premium shoe care brand of Japan’s largest shoe care manufacturer Columbus. A family owned company that dates back over 100 years, which in accordance to Japanese tradition always try do that little bit extra for the most demanding customers.
I’ve said it before, and I’ll likely say it again: few beat the Japanese bespoke shoemaker TYE when it comes to shoe design. They can do the craziest of things as well as really toned down stuff, but almost always in a unique way with a perfectly balanced design and pattern. This apron derby is no different.
The Indonesian shoemaker Winson and the Japanese men’s shoe store Tanakajakkuten has collaborated on small fully handmade RTW range that combines dress and rugged in a really lovely way. Unique designs, superb craftsmanship, and really wearable and interesting shoes is the result.
One of the best things of working with various shoemakers and order shoes in person with them, is the actual order process. Where you try on potential test shoes, maybe have your feet measured and decide model, leather, sole and other details. Together with the shoemaker you go through things to get it just right for you.
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Among the top Japanese makers of heritage workwear boots stands Brass, the company behind the revered Clinch brand. Founded by Minoru Matsuura, Brass has become synonymous with premium craftsmanship, doing handmade really high quality often vintage boots styles that are sought after by customers around the world.
Last week the Japanese public broadcasting company’s international TV channel, NHK World Japan, aired an episode of the lifestyle programme Japanology Plus with focus on leather shoes. Here they met bespoke shoemakers like Shoji Kawaguchi of Marquess and Noriyuki Misawa, who also make art shoes, visited a shoemaking school and got shoes shined by Yuya Hasegawa of Brift H. The episode is in English and can be viewed for free online.
I’ve done a few of these articles, highlighting three brands that are relatively unknown to the masses, either for being very new or for other reasons. This time it’s the Japanese MTO brand Lightbulb, the established Chinese brand Twinkima.G who now seem to start looking more internationally as well, and former Cleverley head lastmaker Adam Law’s own bespoke brand.
There’s been many thousands of iterations of the plain toe derby made throughout the years, and of these I’ve seen hundreds. A lot of lovely ones of course. But question is if this one here by last year’s shoemaking world champion Ken Hishinuma of Khish the Work isn’t the one to rule them all, in my book.
The overall quality of classic shoes were very high a number of decades back, and the styles in general works well still today, which means that there’s a lot of interest in vintage men’s shoes. In this episode we dig into the topic together with Takashi “Gucci” Horiguchi who runs one of the most acclaimed vintage shoe stores in the world: Super 8 Shoes in Tokyo.
