Here’s a thorough look at a new pair I received from the Chinese maker Acme Shoemaker, a pair of MTM / semi bespoke split toe derbys with hand braided contrasting stitching. The special thing with Acme is that all their shoes are made to the same standard, from the main RTW range to the full bespoke offerings.
It’s only Acme’s recently launched slightly lower priced Marvel range (which still is hand welted with handmade sole stitch though) and a few cemented casual models that are more basic made. Otherwise, as is evident on these photos here, all Acme shoes really are made to the same standard as real high-end bespoke. This is the third pair I have received from them, where I could see a clear improvement in build between my first two pairs, they’ve now at such a level that it’s not much more that can be done to be frank, and second and third are more equal in make. The lasts have been slightly modified for each pair, and is basically perfect now.
These split toe derbys are made in a dark brown Janus reverse calf suede from the British Charles F. Stead tannery, and with rubber topy and full rubber heel top piece, intention is to have them also in harsher weather. What makes them different to most split toe derbys is the decorative hand braided stitching along the apron seam and as a simulated heel cap. Along with other seams being in contrasting colour, they get a slightly more casual and personal character.
Below a bunch of photos of this pair, more about Acme in this review.
Splendid pair and beautiful work from ACME !
Andre: Thank you! They are great
The shoes are stunning, thanks for sharing.
You indicate that they are basically on the same level as other top European makers such as G&G and Japanese makers such as Marquess, TYE, etc.. Having considered what you said about their standard, I think their price is really good – I am close to ordering this pair: https://acmeshoemaker.com/?product=8034-ponytail-loafer
What do you think about the model? Do you think it will be the same quality as your pair?
Thanks in advance!
Harry: When they put in full effort they are up very high, yes. Up at the level of the makers like those it’s more about personal taste. Then of course for bespoke orders makers can push various things to another level as well, with how they make things. Have only seen samples of the RTW shoes but those are made to same high standard, so stock shoes should be very good as well.
Cheers, Jesper. You mentioned that their quality/execution standard improved compared to 2020/2021. So I am wondering if the stock shoes were made then before it all improved. I am a bit cautious to approach the maker with this question. What do you think?
Harry: Don’t know anything on that, but as stated in the review, it’s not like it was bad for the price before.
Whoever that actually pays for the shoes wouldn’t want to receive shoes from your first review, as it has improved since then. You didn’t pay any or at least not the actual price so probably doesn’t matter too much for you.
Harry: If that’s how you feel I’d say it’s better you contact those who actually know, the brand itself, since as I said I have no idea 🙂
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All great valid points by Jesper.
Harry, as a paying client with 8 or 9 pairs from ACME and as someone who has coordinated with ACME for the occasional featured promotion on my platform, I received my first MTO from ACME with September 2020, which was within the first months of their delivering shoes to clients I’ve paid for and received RTW, MTO and MTM over the last 3 years from ACME and each pair exceeded expectations.
Perspective is critically important. When it’s an improvement from an already high standard within the industry, that margin is extremely slim and rarely noticed unless you’re critically examining the shoes for the purpose of describing them for the discerning enthusiast.
To sum up this lengthy comment, a few thoughts: 1. Questions about the shoes are often best handled by the shoemaker. 2. If you’re hesitant with how old handmade RTW shoes are, you can always commission an MTO that will be made expressly for you. 3. Those first pairs from acme contain the same quality regarding integrity of construction, functional performance and longevity. the improved elements do not make the earlier pairs any lesser, but rather reflect the continuous improvement most top range shoemakers experience.