The American heritage footwear company Red Wing reintroduces one of it’s most requested models – the slightly dressier Beckman boot. It’s made with a Gro-cord half rubber sole, and news is that they’ve switched from the often criticised, hard to break-in Featherstone leather to the softer Excalibur.
The Beckman style is named after the Red Wing company founder, Charles Beckman, and story is that he developed a style like this to be worn on the muddy streets of Minnesota in beginning of the 20th century, sort of a more city version than their more rugged workwear boots. The actual Beckman model wasn’t introduced in their line-up until early 2000, first under the name Gentlemen Travelers made in Horween’s Chromexcel leather, but soon renamed to Beckman and using the thick smooth full grain leather Featherstone from their own S.B. Foot Tannery. This was a really thick leather, that was hard to break-in, which many people complained about, although some loved it and the way it developed over time.
An older Beckman boot, model 9016, in Cigar Featherstone leather, on the 8 last. Picture: End Clothing
Beckman boots were often made on a last developed specifically for this collection, called 224, with a slightly less bulbous toe, as well as on the more common high toe box 8 last. It’s a plain toe, 6″ high boot, and it had the Vibram Roccio half rubber soles, a rather low lug sole version. In 2015 the Japanese got their wish of an unstructured toe version made, called Beckman Flatbox, which was a really praised version.
The Beckman was discontinued in 2018, although it certainly had it’s fans, apparently not enough of them. Ever since then though, many have wished for its return, and there’s been rumours through the years that it would be made again. Without anything happening, until this year.
The new Beckman boot, made on the 224 last.
Back in spring news spread on Reddit that the Beckman was indeed making a comeback, since some retailers had got early samples of them. And this week the big drop took place, with the style being available from both Red Wing’s own stores as well as many of their retailers. It’s made on a slightly updated 224 last (what changes are from the old one isn’t clear), with the regular Goodyear welted construction.
The Gro-cord soles and heels are really nice.
There’s some news though. One is the introduction of the Gro-cord sole (only used on the Flatbox version before), a half rubber sole placed on top of a full leather sole. The other one is that the rather stiff Featherstone leather is changed to another S.B. leather, the Excalibur. It’s also a smooth full grain leather, but softer and slightly waxier finish. It’s offered in the colours Black, Cigar and Black Cherry. With the still increasing popularity of good boots the Beckman is hopefully here to stay again for a long time. And maybe that hyped Flatbox will make a return as well.
The Excalibur leather in Black Cherry. Last two pictures: Lester
Here in Cigar Excalibur leather. Pictures: Red Wing
