For shoe manufacturers, both the big factories and small one-man operations, it is a constant pursuit of good upper leather. When you come across good material, therefore, there are many who accumulate extra, in order to “have for the future”, and it is often a pleasure to look around in the shelves with leathers. And most fuzz gets nice old vintage skins.
It’s about older leather, usually between 10-40 years old, times when there was a bit higher level of quality in general and the demand for good leather was a bit smaller. For example, the upper leather from the legendary German tannery Freudenberg (now moved to Poland under the name Weinheimer, but not really the same class anymore according to the general knowledge) i highly desirable, single hides can go on Ebay for large sums, and there are some leather stockists around the world who have collect old hides from well renowned tanneries that cost a decent amount nowadays. The pair in the picture is from Yohei Fukuda, they are made in a vintage leather from the Italian tanney Ilcea (long before they went bankrupt and the new start under the new owner Vecchia Toscana), a very nice leather, aniliny like Freudenbergs, with a matte finish (often aniline-colored hides are run through glass rolls too get a luster), which has very narrow fine creases.
Dear Jesper, please allow me to ask one question related to this old post. Would you recommend to choose vintage leather, say an vintage freudenberg box calf compared to the new Weinheimer box calf if one could find good qualit vintage stock for bespoke shoes? What would be important points to judge when looking at vintage leather? Many thanks
YP: If you can get a hold of a good example of the older, better Freudenberg hides I’d definitely go with that. It’s superior to todays Weinheimer, especially if it’s not their black box. Apart from the black they put a lot of coating on it nowadays, it’s not the same at all. Actually had a special babycalf hide ordered from Weinheimer to have my Patrick Frei shoes made in, but it wasn’t good enough, luckily he had a fine example of an old Freudenberg hide available which I loved.
Many thanks indeed, I will then definitely try with your clear recommendation. Nice evening.
YP: In general, always speak with the maker, they know the best stuff they have access to.