According to information given by a US sales representative of the famous tannery J. Rendenbach – most known for its oak bark tanned leather soles – the German company is to close the tannery. More info will follow later on, but here is a summary of what is known.
J. Rendenbach is one of the most famous tanneries in the world, making oak bark tanned leather soles, heels and shoe components. Its J.R. logo is synonymous with hard wearing sole leather, where the company’s fame boomed after the book by László Vass – Handmade Shoes for Men – and now shoe brands and cobblers love to show off the stamp on the bottom of the shoes as a sign of quality. It’s a traditional tannery where hides stay in ground pits with oak bark and other natural tannins for about a year, it’s time consuming but gives excellent results. The company has been around since 1871, located in the middle of the city Trier in the western parts of Germany, still owned by the Rendenbach family, with Hanns Rendenbach running things.
Now, like a bolt from the blue for many, an American sales representative for J.R. yesterday wrote the following in a few Facebook groups for cobblers and shoe industry folks in the US: “For those who haven’t yet heard, I am sad to announce that the J.R. tannery will be closing. Hanns and I have truly appreciated your support and passion for the J.R. Rendenbach products. I have thoroughly enjoyed working for this company and will miss the amazing products & people I have come to know through the years.”
A shoe newly resoled with a J.R. sole.
Reactions showed sadness, chock and surprise. Immediately a lot of speculations aroused. Shoegazing has been in contact with J.R. (who currently hasn’t given any comments) and with the US sales representative, who promise that more info about the situation will be given later on. There’s many reasons that it has come to this, a development during many years with rubber soles taking over also in premium footwear, and along that a pandemic that hit this industry hard, plus many other parts, as well as reasons for why they seem to not look at selling the business. It’s a tough time for Hanns Rendenbach and all people involved with the company.
Shoegazing expects to follow-up with more information later on, when things are more clear and after I’ve hopefully have had the possibility to talk more in-depth with Hanns Rendenbach and J.R. representatives. As we all know, things can change, but as it looks now the amazing products from J. Rendenbach will soon not be available on the market anymore, which surely is a sad thing for this industry.
J. Rendenbach soles. Picture: Cobbler’s Plus (Top picture: Potter & Sons)
If you’re interested in seeing more from the tannery, check out this factory visit by Kirby Allison.
UPDATE OCTOBER 15: J.R. has now sent out an official e-mail confirming that the tannery will end its business in the beginning of next year. Some lines are already closed, but they do still accept new orders, according to info they will take orders until January (changed now, see below).
UPDATE OCTOBER 27: Since so many customers and especially wholesalers have placed huge orders since the news about the tannery closing went public, they have now stopped taking new orders, and will produce the orders placed now, and then plan is to close down production first half of next year.
The e-mail sent out from Rendenbach. Picture: Kevin Rowley / Facebook Footwear Makers Forum
Such sad news. Hope some kind of solution will come along.
Oh my. Didn’t see that one coming 🙁
I went to my local cobbler in Tokyo yesterday. He is one of the top tier cobblers – working by himself and doing everything from machine stitched bottom work for MTM and semi-bespoke shoe makers, exclusive contract with some Italian brand shoes in Ginza for shoe repairs, and takes on Patina work from some of the big names that have overflow business – sadly he mentioned that if things don’t turn around by December, he will need to reevaluate the business. From his whole business sources, things have dropped up to 80 percent from pre-covid. He mentioned in particular that shoes are just not wearing down, and the use of a rubber half sole can give the sole a life of years if not the lifetime of a lightly worn shoe…
I notice too that the re-sole options used to be Italian open stitched at the low end, and JR closed stitched at the top end, but recently this has been replaced by UK Oak bark (Baker?), and the reason given is that most re-soles are on UK shoes – so maybe something behind this news…from a Japan perspective anyway. Very sad news
Ugh, such a shame. Didn’t expect my JR soles to be the last of its kind. I hope somehow the brand could be kept alive.
Well, in the meantime, whose sole would be a fair replacement of JR? Baker?
Simon and John: Yes, also hope for a solution! Now that it’s known I think they will be contacted with many suggestions, of which some I hope would be a good one that also Rendenbach themselves feel would work well.
Peter: Yeah, but do think Japan seem to a bit behind Europe and the US. Here things have returned more to normal, people go to their jobs and travel again, we can travel internationally, etc, so here many companies see a return to better times (as I wrote about in a previous article). Hope you’ll see the same in Japan as well soon!
Des: Baker is most similar, also oak bark tanned and excellent quality, then Garat is also great, chestnut tanned but same long processes.
no way! I hope financiers can get in there to help and structure a deal. They’d be wearing JR soles anyway!
In recent years I have refurbished some of my shoes with JR leather soles, but I still have more shoes to be refurbished. This is a piece of very very sad news to a shoe lover like me. J&FJ Baker leather sole will be an option to replace the JR leather sole I heard from a reliable source because of its good quality. Many bespoke shoemakers like John Lobb, Tony Gaziano, use it on their bespoke shoes. According to Tony Gaziano, a little harder to work with when making shoes. That said it’s superb.
Olatusi Jazz: Sad indeed. Yes, Baker and Garat both have soles of similar quality to JR. And many think they are easier to work with than JR, opposite of what Tony express, especially Garat where one can specify the amount of fat in the leather. That’s been one of JR’s issues, that it’s rather dry, although I believe they made improved this part lately.
I am firm Believer that with faith and great leadership This can be turned around .. I have never thought of myself as a well dressed man, in my Trade as a welder and Brewer in the Hand Craft Brewing industry till the lockdowns from this pandemic. That’s when I found myself watching youtube one day and to my surprise. I started watching shoe videos and well dressed videos from the Hanger project by Kirby Allison and Preston Soto’s Elegant oxford and of course Hammer time with Bedo’s leatherworks . Just to mention a few . I soon found My new calling and started to buy all new Attire. Before I new it. I had over 30 pairs of dress shoes and close to 40 Blazer jackets and french cuff dress shirts , plus all the accessories to go with it from watches to cufflinks to ties and pocket squares. Yes I can now see why it is so awesome to look sharp everywhere you go. I am truly a new Man .. Since then, I have been the star at all the events ,shows and restaurants and was even in a T.V. commercial. For The night with 007 tribute show .. Yes so never let the bad things in life drag you down .We just never know what life can throw at us . So believe and receive and your day will be filled with Success . I’m not much of a betting man But with a brand like JR.. the worlds best leather soles ,I’m sure they will come out on Top.. Jay Lesher aka Jay The welder CEO of Brew On America LLC. and Master Brewery Builder at Cigar City Brewing CO.Tampa Fl. .. Brew on !!!