The Chinese premium brand Acme Shoemaker has introduced a new range of more affordable shoes. The shoes are still hand lasted, hand welted with fully hand stitched sole seams – but some simpler make means they can be offered at €900. Looks like quite a lot of bang for the buck.
Those following Shoegazing knows that I have two pairs from Acme Shoemaker, a lazyman and a plain toe derby, both MTM, which I’m really pleased with. Read more in this buyer’s guide and this picture special of the second pair. Their regular RTW, MTO, MTM and bespoke are all made to the same very high standard. When introduced a couple of years ago price was quite spectacular, but as reputation grew they’ve raised prices to more reasonable levels. This made Acme less accessible. But now they are changing that.
Black brogued cap toe balmoral oxford, part of The Marvel range.
With the new RTW range called The Marvel, they step into a new price segment. Initially three oxfords are available – a black punched cap toe balmoral on a round toe last, an adelaide and balmoral wingtip in dark brown on a soft chiseled last – but more models are to be introduced. The lasts are new and more classic in shape, not as elongated and slightly wider especially towards the toe box than their regular RTW range, to fit even more feet well. The same size as for the main line is recommended though.
Fully hand stitched soles.
As mentioned the shoes are still hand lasted, hand welted and have a fully handmade 270 degree sole stitch, and all leathers used are the same as for the main line. Where they differ from the regular RTW/MTO models, which are made to proper bespoke standards, are stiffeners (I believe celastic in the toe and shorter more basic real leather in the heel), the waist isn’t blind welted, and slightly less close-cut and less tapered heels. Also lasted shoe trees aren’t included here, but will be able to order separately. That said, you just have to look at the photos here to see that the quality level certainly is very high for the price of €900 ($900).
Balmoral wingtip model. If there’s one thing I still miss it could be that they look quite a lot like shoes from Fukuda in two cases and G&G in one, their own “Acme identity” is maybe not there with these.
Waist isn’t blind welted, yet neat looking.
Seriously lovely soles. Pictures: Acme Shoemaker
