The Chinese premium brand Acme Shoemaker has introduced a new range of more affordable shoes. The shoes are still hand lasted, hand welted with fully hand stitched sole seams – but some simpler make means they can be offered at €900. Looks like quite a lot of bang for the buck.
Those following Shoegazing knows that I have two pairs from Acme Shoemaker, a lazyman and a plain toe derby, both MTM, which I’m really pleased with. Read more in this buyer’s guide and this picture special of the second pair. Their regular RTW, MTO, MTM and bespoke are all made to the same very high standard. When introduced a couple of years ago price was quite spectacular, but as reputation grew they’ve raised prices to more reasonable levels. This made Acme less accessible. But now they are changing that.
Black brogued cap toe balmoral oxford, part of The Marvel range.
With the new RTW range called The Marvel, they step into a new price segment. Initially three oxfords are available – a black punched cap toe balmoral on a round toe last, an adelaide and balmoral wingtip in dark brown on a soft chiseled last – but more models are to be introduced. The lasts are new and more classic in shape, not as elongated and slightly wider especially towards the toe box than their regular RTW range, to fit even more feet well. The same size as for the main line is recommended though.
Fully hand stitched soles.
As mentioned the shoes are still hand lasted, hand welted and have a fully handmade 270 degree sole stitch, and all leathers used are the same as for the main line. Where they differ from the regular RTW/MTO models, which are made to proper bespoke standards, are stiffeners (I believe celastic in the toe and shorter more basic real leather in the heel), the waist isn’t blind welted, and slightly less close-cut and less tapered heels. Also lasted shoe trees aren’t included here, but will be able to order separately. That said, you just have to look at the photos here to see that the quality level certainly is very high for the price of €900 ($900).
Balmoral wingtip model. If there’s one thing I still miss it could be that they look quite a lot like shoes from Fukuda in two cases and G&G in one, their own “Acme identity” is maybe not there with these.
Waist isn’t blind welted, yet neat looking.
Seriously lovely soles. Pictures: Acme Shoemaker
Hi, what are your thoughts on how the Marvel RTW series from Acme Shoemaker compares to Crockett & Jones Hand Grade Collection or Edward Green’s RTW shoes that are more readily available? Does the Marvel series stand on par in terms of make and quality, since given the current situation with tariffs, the landed cost for a customer in the US falls similar to C&J Hand Grade and Edward Green. Thank you for your insight in advance!
Dan: Definitely higher, given that Marvel is fully handmade.
That’s very reassuring to know. I’m a big fan of their Marvel Series specifically due to the less dramatic lasts that I personally think are more fit for every day wear for the office and such. It’s great to know there is still value there even with tariffs for customers who are less focused on ‘mainstream’ brand name. Thank you!
It is a shame they have said they will likely not be attending New York’s Super Trunk this year, but understandable.
Hi Jesper, hope you are well. What do you think the top line Acme vs Vietnamese shoemaker Timerlee iii, do you think they are at a similar level?
G: With reservations for me not having seen Timber Lee shoes in person, but Acme’s top line is finer than most other fully handmade Asian shoes. Which is also why they are often much more expensive as well.