Recently I received a new pair from the Chinese maker Acme Shoemaker, a pair of MTM / semi bespoke casual split toe derby made in a truly amazing camel leather. It has a lovely natural grain character and on top of that it’s very hard wearing, making it work perfect for a chunkier more heavy shoe that will likely be worn a bit harder.
I’ve written about Acme several times on the blog before, for example in a buyer’s guide when I got my first pair from them a few years ago (found here) and in picture special articles covering consecutive pairs (here and here). For this fourth pair I have received from them, I had seen a sample of this style on a round toe last at the New York super trunk, and hence they made a new version of my personal lasts with a different toe shape, with round casual toe. Fit is just as good as on the previous pair.
The level of make is also very high again. It’s nice to get a pair that is very different and see a maker being able to handle that as well, with the 360 degree sole stitch and storm welt, double sole with rugged Commando rubber topy, brass eyelets, and so on. I forgot to mention that I didn’t want the regular high shine burnished toe I believe they do as standard on their MTM or bespoke shoes. Here it’s a bit off, I might remove it and have the colour more even and with less shine.
What I have to talk most about is the camel leather. It’s the first pair of camel leather I ever own, it’s been on my bucket list for a long time. Similar to kangaroo leather it’s relatively thin (can be thicker as well, depending on type) and supple, comparable to calf leather, also similar in price in general, but much more durable and scratch resistant, among the most durable leathers out there. This since it has a very tight fibre structure, about ten times tighter than cow leather, coming from the need to protect the camels in the harsh environments they live in. Amazingly enough, it also seem to crease very finely. The only con with it (to some people) is that it’s a leather that has natural scars and marks on it, since it comes from wildlife animals, but together with the lovely grain character it’s not an issue in my eyes unless something that would affect durability. Camel leather is popular for among other things jackets and bags, to me it should surely be more popular for footwear, not least casual shoes and boots.
The camel leather Acme uses is a crust leather, so they can paint it to any colour one wish. I’d be surprised if Acme don’t increase their amount of camel leather orders a lot the coming years. If I get another pair it will likely be in camel again, but different colour. It’s just so lovely.
Below a bunch of photos of this pair.
It seems that craftsmanship is not an issue for them, but I always feel that ACME’s shoe designs lack a memorable point, or rather, a soul?
Dennis: I can understand what you mean. For a brand that clearly takes quite direct inspiration from several different sources, it can be a bit like that. The same for some other newer brands. With time I think many of these brands can find their own identity to a larger degree.
Fascinating to see a great camel leather shoe. The leather looks fantastic and has a wonderful texture. Personally I would have preferred a Dainite sole but the Commando works well with the “harder wear” intent of the shoe. I like the restrained use of a classic design here that showcases the color and texture of the camel leather.
Nikhil: Thanks! Yeah it’s a really great leather for sure.