The British-based bespoke shoemaker William Efe Laborde now introduces a Made to Order service, with shoes made to exactly the same standard as his full bespoke, but on standard lasts available in two different toe shapes and in four widths. Initially an oxford and a derby are available as base models, and the leather options are spectacular, with among other things several vintage Freudenberg leathers.
William Efe Laborde is an independent bespoke shoemaker based in London. He runs his own brand, and also do some outwork from a couple of the most famous British bespoke companies. You can learn more about him in this podcast episode, where we talk about his venture into shoemaking and about connecting historic shoemaking with the present. Because William has a huge interest in old shoes, tools and leathers which he both brings in to his own shoemaking, and as a side business he also refurbish and sell old vintage tools.
As with most things William Efe Laborde do, he’s inspired by old ways. He offers these specially made laces woven on an old wooden loom from the 18th century, a project he has worked on together with the Japanese maker Kazuya Kimura.
When Efe Laborde introduces a Made to Order service, it’s no surprise that it’s done the old school way. Inspired by how postal order service of footwear worked back in the days (which was a big thing, especially on some markets), he offers 15 sizes in four different widths, making it possible for most to have a good fit. He has one round toe last and one soft square toe one, they are developed together with a Northampton-based company to merge the standard last traditions and fit of the factory-made shoes with for example the improved arch support and more shaped bottom of the lasts from West End bespoke.
The two last shapes offered. Round toe and soft square.
He has two base models, a classic oxford with five pairs of eyelets – called Thackeray – and a derby with four pairs of eyelets – called Lartigue. There’s a lot of modifications to be made to them both though, where one can choose with or without cap toe, with or without small hole brogueing, you can choose thickness of the sole, square or bevelled waist or a combination of them, add toe taps, etc. The shoes are fully handmade, by William and with his outworker closer, to the same standard as his full bespoke. William has an obsession with old classic shoes from London and Paris the decades around the 1900’s, it’s evident in his bespoke shoes, and it’s just as evident in the MTO styles he offers now.
Sample of the oxford model, made in dark brown coloured vintage Freudenberg Impala grain, with cap toe and small hole brougeing.
The derby model, with four pairs of eyelets, where sample has a plain toe and is made of burgundy Freudenberg baby calf and the lightweight sole option.
Bevelled ridge fiddle back waist.
This is further enhanced with the leathers he offers. Here, the Efe Laborde MTO service is truly unique. When I visited his workshop and browsed through the leather batches, it literally felt like an experience in itself. First of all, he offers an impressive selection of vintage Carl Freudenberg leathers – the mythic German tannery that was closed a few decades ago, and after the move to Poland and name change to Weinheimer, although still good, it’s not the same as before. Five colours of the classic very fine Freudenberg box calf , but also three shades of the highly sought after baby calf, plus their Impala grain available in taupe but which can be dyed to any colour one wish. On top of that some sub-Saharan goat skin leathers that are thicker than normal goat, nice full reverse calf suedes, and more.
The leathers offered are incredible. A selection of what he has in these swatch batches for his bespoke customers have been chosen for the MTO.
The shoes are fully handmade to the same standard as the full bespoke shoes.
Price for the MTO offering starts at £2,900 / €3,400, with an upcharge of £300 for most of the vintage Freudenberg leathers. Lasted shoe trees made individually for all pairs are included. A lot of money, sure, but given they are basically bespoke shoes just on standard lasts, it’s understandable. The sizing is very similar to for example Edward Green, which should make it relatively easy for people to pinpoint the right size, but of course William can also assist in this.
It’s great to see a small independent British maker take a step and offer this, we’ve mainly seen it from larger makers before. With William Efe Laborde’s vintage style make accompanied with the incredible leather offerings, I would expect that there’s some shoe lovers around the world who will find this new MTO service highly intriguing.
These lovely laces are thin over the lace holes and then thick for the bow.
Lasted hinged shoe trees are included, if one wish three piece shoe trees one can add that at an upcharge.
Close-up of the Impala leather.
This is amazing. And that you can order them straight from the online shop, very tempting 😊
Brian: Yes, good stuff indeed!
The price does not seem sane compared to Main d’Or. In my view, calf MTO should not exceed 1000 even with “bespoke” quality.
Shoes are beautiful, nevertheless.
M: Well, Japan is in general very low-priced compared to most other big markets, due to fierce competition and very low currency exchange rate. If you compare to other British companies, top premium factory-made MTO like Edward Green top drawer or Gaziano & Girling Deco are both around £2,000, and G&G’s bespoke quality MTO Optimum cost £3,600, so if you compare to this I’d say Efe Laborde’s price is very competitive.
What sub £1,000 fully handmade to actual top bespoke quality MTO shoes do you know of?
Jesper, for MTO shoes geography does not matter that much. Top bespoke quality for MTO under 1000 can be offered by makers in Indonesia or Vietnam.
M: Again, which brands do you refer to? I’m not taking about “fully handmade” only, but a standard of top bespoke. Brands like Winson (who I believe has upped prices above €1,000 as well nowadays) are sure great but use for example plastic toe stiffeners, and ones like Ichigo Ichie’s Vietnam made MTO isn’t really up to par with good bespoke makers. But if you know any, good for you, seems like rather limited though, and to say “calf MTO should not exceed 1000 even with “bespoke” quality” is quite off on most regards, in my eyes.
Jesper, you can ask Winson to make use the leather toe stiffeners etc. It could be more expensive, but not up to 3x the price just for the MTO. Fully bespoke is more challenging to do overseas, but “MTO with bespoke quality” is subject to international competition and should price their products accordingly. Higher costs of labor or publicity is not something that I am enthusiastic to pay for.
M: I thought we talked about prices “below 1000”, since it “should not exceed” that according to you, so why “3x that” now?
With your logic, there would only be a point to manufacture RTW or MTO shoes in the most low wage / low living cost countries in the world, all other manufacturers should either lose money or don’t do shoes at all? Let’s just say I strongly disagree…
Jesper, as far as I remember, you mentioned 3,000+ as the benchmark for the bespoke-level MTO vs 1000 that I proposed – I think “3x” is in line.
My point is that since MTO shoes do not require a close interaction with the customer, the shoemakers face a stronger international competition and should be careful about pricing. Another way would be building their brand instead of craftsmanship, but that’s a completely different world for enthusiasts who are aware of rising stars like Winson.
M: Where have I mentioned that? AFAIK I’ve never mentioned a “benchmark” like that anywhere, since there is none. The only one who have mentioned a “benchmark” is you when you stated “In my view, calf MTO should not exceed 1000 even with “bespoke” quality”.
What you write in your last section sure is valid. But that is very different to what you have stated in your previous comments above.
I disagree with your accusations of me changing my opinion and/or statements.
Nevertheless, I appreciate that you consider valid what I said in the last paragraph in the message above – thank you for the discussion.
M: I assume then that I never had written what you stated, given you can’t specify where it would have been done. Anyway, people can read for themselves and see if they agree with me or you. Cheers!
Can’t see why the price point is such a point of contention. Just like how M decided that he wouldn’t pay above 1K (whatever currency it is), William can decide whatever price bracket he wants to compete within, and I’m sure he knows more about the demographics of his clientele better than random internet strangers.
To some extent I agree that with MTO you’ll be exposed to competition from all over the world, certainly much more so than with bespoke, but shoes aren’t exactly like machine parts where all properties that matter can be measured and quantified. Just because two pairs of shoes are both handwelted and their soles are hand-sewn at the same stitch density, doesn’t mean they are identical. You’re buying the shoemakers’ designs and aesthetic too. I know Main d’Or makes great bespoke shoes with excellent finishing, but if I were to get bespoke shoes in Japan I’d probably go to Marquess, just because I like Kawaguchi’s designs and styling more than Murata’s, even though both of them produce well-made shoes (and Main d’Or is likely even cheaper).