Bridlen is one of those brands that never stand still, but continues to develop their offerings year after year. For their updated top range called Founders 25 they’ve refined a lot of things, for example heels built with ten thin leather heel stacks, slim wood pegged waists, 10 spi fudged sole stitching, up to 20 spi upper stitching and so on. All at an impressive price point.
Bridlen has their own factory in Chennai, India, with owners that are really interested in shoes and shoemaking and who can make shoes themselves (this is less common than one might think). This results in a constant development of their shoes, also of existing models and styles. It’s most evident in their top range, which have seen several iterations the past few years, and the latest rendition called Founders 25 takes several new steps.
Adelaide from the new Founders range.
Things like the sleek lasts and oak bark tanned Baker outsoles are kept from before, but a lot of the making has been refined. The waist is nicely built-up, round bevelled and very narrow, thanks to being wood pegged. The sole stitching is done at a relatively high 8 spi (stitches per inch) and welt has a decorative fudging. Upper stitching also has a pretty high stitch density, between 18-20 spi.
The slim bevelled waist.
Pegs are hidden for a clean look, the round build-up goes under the heel for improved strength.
The most unique thing with the new Founders line shoes though is the heels. Unlike standard for machine-made shoes they are not pre-made but built on the shoes, and it’s done with many thin layers, 9-10 of them. It requires quite a lot of time and skill to be done well. The fact that the heels are built on the shoes also means the rounded waist can continue under the heel and be stronger. The many thin layers is a nerdy thing for sure, but for shoe aficionados, the look and craftsmanship behind this is appreciated. The price for the shoes from the Founders 25 range starts at just €360, which is very competitive for what you get.
Close-up of the heels with many thin lifts.
The welt finishing.
Black plain cap toe with the new specs. Pictures: Bridlen
This line looks promising, but would the range be extended?
How would you compare Founders 25 to TLB Artista, Edward Green or different lines of GG in terms of construction and leathers?
DV: Yes, I believe they slowly but surely expand it.
Founders 25 and TLB Artista is of course more similar, being in the same price range, where Founders have a much more advanced built heel etc, Artista has real leather heel stiffeners (vs leather board for Bridlen) and stitching going back to the heel while still have the narrow waist etc. More which you think looks best and fits you best.
EG and GG are of course steps above in terms of overall material quality, clean make etc. that’s also why they cost much more. If you compare closely one of those and one of Founders or TLB Artista, you see that the latter two goes quicker through the factory, but when seen on your feet they can look more similar, which was one of the intentions when TLB Artista was developed.
Big fan of blkbrd, Acme shoes are incredible, would love to attend in 2025, spent 20yrs with Mezlan from Spain, now retired.
Charles Mooney: You definitely should come to London next year!