A common misconception is that the only way to reinforce eyelets on shoes are metal or plastic inserts in the holes. This is not the case though, all shoe manufacturers have the holes reinforced with a reinforcement tape backing which isn’t visible. Learn more in this article.
When one manufacture shoes, there’s a lot of things that go on “behind the scenes”. This certainly is true for upper making, where also on many less expensive shoes there’s a lot of work when assembling the uppers to make them retain their shape, be durable and last longer. For factory-made leather shoes there are in general canvas backings, reinforcements along seams and at edges of assembled pieces, reinforced topline – and reinforced eyelets.
A midrange Goodyear welted shoe disassembled, showing how much backings and reinforcements one find between the upper and lining.
And it’s not that the eyelet holes have full metal eyelets or hidden ones placed on the backside that is the only way eyelets are reinforced, which many believe. It’s understandable that if one can’t see it one believe it’s not there, but rest assured, reinforcement is in place. Otherwise most leather shoes, especially made of thinner calf leather and not least split suede, would all be torn or at least misshaped rather quickly. Even with only metal eyelets, this would often be the case, without further reinforcement. This shoe manufacturers of course know, and prevent.
A bespoke shoe upper part, where the facings are reinforced.
Therefore it’s standard to use a very strong tape placed between the upper leather and the lining, through which the holes are punched. This goes also for the finest bespoke shoes. Even if most of the other backings are done with leather, some types of reinforcement tapes are also used in certain places, like the eyelet holes. Also why you in general on unlined shoes have a lining at the facing / eyestay, as well as in heel and along the topline, because there one have reinforcements and stiffeners.
Since these type of backings and reinforcements aren’t particularly charming, it’s not often shown off in all the manufacturing photos or videos you see around. But rest assured, they are there.
Another bespoke shoe where you can see more reinforcements in use not only over facings but also edges. Then in between this upper part and the lining there will be leather backings as well, instead of the canvas used on the factory-made RTW shoe shown above.
To see more on how uppers are made, you can for example see this article on the making of a pair of bespoke Gaziano & Girling shoes, and this article covering disassembly of shoes from Loake, Carmina and Paolo Scafora.
great post , thank you for sharing.
This is very helpful, I didn’t know that before.