UK shoemaker Deborah Carré is conducting one of the largest academic research projects on bespoke shoemaking in years. Her PhD explores the transmission of shoemaking skills since the 1850s, with historical and modern shoemaking competitions – mainly the World Championships of Shoemaking – playing a vital role. She is now seeking shoemakers to participate in her research by answering a survey and contributing further. Collectors of vintage handmade shoes are also invited to take part.
I will not write much myself here, but instead let Deborah Carré introduce herself, her research, and what kind of input she is seeking. If you are a shoemaker or a collector of vintage shoes, I strongly encourage you to read the text below and take the short time needed to participate in this important research. The more participants, the better. And given there’s not much research done on this topic, the one that is, needs all the support it can get. Please also help spread the word so it reaches as many people as possible.
Deborah Carré. Pictures: Onur Pinar / Carréducker
I feel hugely grateful to Jesper for introducing me here. My name is Deborah Carré. I’m a London-based, bespoke shoemaker and I’m reaching out to ask for your help with my research into the skills and traditions of West End handsewn (bespoke) shoemaking, to preserve it for future generations.
For over 25 years, I’ve worked as a bespoke shoemaker here in London as one half of Carréducker, alongside James Ducker. Just as we had the privilege to train with Paul Wilson many, many years ago, we continue to pass on the skills and techniques at our handsewn shoemaking school. We offer newcomers a vital introduction to the craft and a jump-start into the trade; some of our students have even been featured on Jesper’s podcast!
Teaching led me to this exciting new venture as a research scholar. Across the globe, communities are waking up to the importance of preserving not only historic sites but also living heritage – things that can’t be touched, like folklore, music and traditional crafts. I’m exploring West End handsewn shoemaking as a vibrant example of living heritage: its rich history, detailed techniques and the way generations of shoemakers have carried their knowledge to and from London across borders, seas and oceans. (The term West End shoemaking historically distinguishes the artisan shoemakers in and around the West End of London working in fine materials and employing highly skilled techniques).
I never imagined myself diving into research, but the love of this craft and a belief in the power of education and opportunity for all led me here.
Like many, I’ve watched the UK’s shoemaking trade shrink, suppliers fade away and masters retire. Handsewn shoemaking remains on Heritage Crafts’ endangered red list here in the UK. Yet in countries where heritage and training enjoy greater support – through apprenticeships, government funding and formal programmes – the tradition is sustained. My research will compare these systems to find out what really helps to sustain a craft like ours.
While much of my work dives into historic archives, I’ll be drawing on the World Championships of Shoemaking as a contemporary reference, where makers from across the globe echo the legacy of exhibition shoes from the past.
My mission? To create a comprehensive historical and practical resource: a guide to skills, techniques and stories from makers, for makers; keeping the tradition alive, evolving and enticing for the next generation.
Will you help?
Calling all shoemakers!
If you’re a shoemaker, please complete this quick survey. Are you keen to share your experience, who you trained with and how you learned? I’d love to interview you – face-to-face or over Zoom, wherever you are in the world.
Next year I’ll hopefully be travelling to Europe, South Korea and Japan, so please reach out if you’re training or being trained as an apprentice, or if you’ve entered the World Championships and would welcome me to interview you and film your work.
Calling all collectors and connoisseurs
If you collect historic shoes – especially men’s footwear from the late 19th to mid 20th century – I’d be thrilled to see your collection and to hear your stories.
Please email me at deborahccarre@googlemail.com if you would like to help with my research or have any questions.
Thank you, Jesper, for this introduction, and heartfelt thanks to everyone who has already invited me into their workshops, archives and homes. I look forward to meeting many more of you in the months ahead.
/Deborah
