One of the latest additions to the entry level segment of Goodyear welted classic shoes is the Chinese brand Axen. A sibling brand to the established midrange brand Oct. Tenth. Axen offers classic styles on sharp lasts with a very sleek make which gives a look that punches above the €270 price tag.
Many Shoegazing readers will already be familiar with Oct. Tenth, the house brand of the Shanghai-based shoemaking business often referred to as the Xibao workshop. I covered its background and a pair of Made to Measure derbies in this buyer’s guide if you want to read more on that. With the Axen collection, the company now also has an offering aimed at those shopping in a lower price segment.
The main distinction is the construction. While Oct. Tenth’s higher-end shoes are hand welted, Axen uses Goodyear welt construction. The shoes are made in-house in Shanghai, with European upper leathers throughout. It’s a more straightforward offering, but one which draws on the experience of a workshop that also produces much more advanced shoes. You clearly see it in the distinct shapes and a make that looks quite refined.
Medium brown split toe derby with contrasting stitching.
Axen covers a sort of base selection of classic models. There are plain cap-toe oxfords, adelaide oxfords, split-toe derbies, penny and tassel loafers, as well as chelsea and chukka boots. Alongside black and brown calf, there are several suede versions and some more casual alternatives, such as unlined loafers and grain leather models. Plus some sneakers. A bunch of styles are clearly inspired from models from famous European and American brands.
Sharp chelsea.
Several different lasts are used. The Aurora, found on for example the cap-toe oxford and chelsea boot, has a gently rounded toe and a relatively slim silhouette. The adelaide oxford is made on the Ziv last which is a really sharp chiseled square toe last, while other lasts are used for the loafers, chukkas and some of the derbies.
The range is sold as Ready to Wear, but availability varies between models and sizes. In-stock pairs can be dispatched within a few days, while sizes that need to be produced take longer. Orders are shipped from Shanghai, but for shipping to the EU, UK and US are sent DDP so taxes and import duties are included in the order total, so there should be no additional charges on delivery. Prices start from €270 for EU, from $260 for the US.
For those interested in the Oct. Tenth workshop but shopping at a lower budget, Axen is another option worth a look. They have much of the sharp high-end look of Oct. Tenth but at a lower price point.
Open channel leather soles on some shoes, a few types of rubber soles on others.
Made in the Xibao workshop in Shanghai that makes Oct. Tenth and other private label brands.
Suede penny loafer on round toe last. Picture: Axen
