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In many cases a retrospective view on things, “It was better before,” can be quite boring and negative, and mainly be due to nostalgic reasons. But in the case of quality shoes, it’s in many ways a truth that you can’t disregard. It really was better before – and it will most likely never be possible to make the same shoes again. Here’s why.
I have visited quite a few factories that produce Goodyear welted shoes, and although it’s often nice places, it always strikes me that they are relatively small factories, much smaller than many might think. In the Crockett & Jones factory in Northampton, on the other hand, I’m almost overwhelmed by the large, well-trimmed production.
Time for the penultimate installment in the series that follows the process and the production of a pair of bespoke shoes from Gaziano & Girling. This part follows the production of the final pair, I myself spent a week in Northampton to document it all.
I’ve spent the past week in Northampton, where among other things I visited several factories. Heres some curiosities that I snapped up during these visits. Among other things about buying hides from the right season, the emergence of the modern version of the Scotch grain leather, and why John Lobb Paris had to redo all their patterns.
The small Japanese RTW/MTO manufacturer Joe Works has quickly made a name for themselves both in Japan and internationally. It has not been due to mass marketing, they may be active on social media but do not do overly great pics, they just make really nice shoes and with that you come a long way.
Mannina is one of Florence’s oldest bespoke shoemakers, with a more restrained and conservative style than many other Italians. When the founder passed away two years ago it was first a bit uncertain what would happen to the business – today the workshop is at full capacity.
He had what many would call a dream job as lastmaker at John Lobb in London, but wanted more and left the giant to make bespoke shoes under his own name – and succeeded. Meet Nicholas Templeman.
He has produced some of the world’s finest shoes for over 12 years, he is highly praised by the bespoke shoemaking colleagues in Japan, and basically everyone who ordered from him celebrates his shoes. Still there are relatively few in Japan and around the world who know much about him. Meet Eiji Murata, the man behind the brand Main-d’Or.
How the toe is designed is perhaps the most important aesthetic part on a shoe. With its position at the front, it is the most visible, and much of how the rest of the shoe’s shape is perceived by the viewer is determined by the toe. Of course there are lots of different types of toe shapes, but this is an attempt to categorise and explain some traditionally used toe shapes, and some overviewing categories. I also explained often misinterpreted expressions like chiseled.
Stefano Bemer has in recent years become an increasingly important player in the Italian classic shoe sphere, with a more businesslike approach, RTW shoes and international expansion, while the company’s foundation with bespoke shoemaking and education have been maintained. Here is a closer look at the pride of Florence.
