As we head towards one year living under the shadow of a pandemic, it becomes increasingly clear that the quality shoe business is one of the production industries that suffers hard. Now, if ever, is the time for all of us who enjoy great shoes to do all we can to support the brands and retailers that we love, and make those purchases that may prove crucial to save jobs or even whole companies. Read about why the coming months and what we do now will be so important.
Counting out a couple of summer months where things were a bit more normal in many areas of the world, the Covid-19 pandemic has changed the life for most people the past 10 months. Looking at it from the perspective of what this blog is about, this has meant that people are out at the office or in cities wearing shoes to a much lesser degree than normal, which means that we buy much less shoes than normal, leading to a sometimes massive decrease in sales for retailers and brands, and this in turn shows up in low amount of orders to the factories. To add to this, in many countries stores and factories have been forced to shut down anyway. The economic support from governments varies a lot, some get good support and can use furloughs etc, while others are left to manage things more on their own. And it also varies a lot in what degree of financial stability shoe retailers, manufacturers and bespoke makers entered this era in, and to which degree one had large stock/large backlog of orders, etc.
What’s clear in almost all cases though, is that 2020 was a tough year with a lot of challenges for the classic shoe industry. And it’s been increasingly difficult for many now during autumn and winter when restrictions and lockdowns have been going on for a long time in many places, this after an already challenging year. As it is now, every week I’m reached by new info on struggling shoe brands. Factories that need to let staff go, bespoke shoemakers who need to take loans from the government, and so on. The light at the end of the tunnel is of course the vaccines. The vaccination processes are rolling out to a larger and larger degree, and many hope that already by summer things will be back to a more normal state in large parts of the world.
Important to think about now, is that the toughest challenges for the shoe industry isn’t behind it, they are ahead. Now the retailers and manufacturers enter a transition period, where they need to go from sort of idle to something more regular. The furlough supports are ending, potential lowered rents are returned to standard, other financial support is gradually removed and the companies need to survive on their own. All while retailers need to be able to order stock to have something to sell, and factories need to have orders incoming from their retailers to have shoes to do, and to be able to do these shoes they need to source material and get staff back on the line, and so on. Bespoke makers are in a similar situation, they need to quickly get new orders in and be sure to have all materials needed sourced, so production can get back on track.
In all these stages for all these areas of the shoe world, the actors are dependant on decent liquidity. Money to be able to buy material, pay rents and pay salaries. After this long, tough period, the liquidity is low for many players, both retailers, factories and makers. To get cash, they need new orders. With new orders incoming the wheels of the quality shoe industry can start rolling faster again, and a positive spiral can begin to build up things towards how things were before the pandemic. In the same way but the other way around though, if the industry don’t get a good amount of new orders in, the spiral can go downwards instead, and instead of building back to how things were we could see a scary amount of actors in this industry disappear. I’m sure none of us want that.
Therefore, the coming six months or so, what all of us shoe interested people do can prove crucial. All who have the possibility, do support your favourite shoe store, your favourite brand, your favourite bespoke shoemaker. Don’t wait until autumn when you wish to get that new pair for when you expect to start heading in to the office again, order it this spring instead and perhaps just let it rest on a shelf until it’s really needed. Place that MTO order or bespoke order that you’ve been dreaming of. Don’t just sit around for the next sale – order shoes today at full price. Cause in a worst case scenario, if you don’t, you might never be able to – that store, brand, maker might not even be around in autumn. And if you don’t have the possibility to place orders, maybe you work in a business that also have been hit hard and you lost your job, or similar, well, there’s other ways to support your favourites. Tell your friends about them, highlight them in your social media, give them a good review for your previous pair on Trustpilot, and so on. And spread this article and the message behind it, do it with the hashtag #supportyourfavourites in social media. I’m sure that we are so many that wish for this industry to continue to thrive, that if we all do what we can to help with this, we can do wonders together.
Hi Jesper, thanks for this post. Much needed and if it can help nudge someone to make the decision, it will be most useful.
Another trend that may emerge is that some factories are looking to move away from classics which was anyway a shrinking market to make more casual looking shoes. I have resisted this shift in my own factory thus far and will continue to do so in the interest of staying true to our core design and construction ethos but it will be interesting to see if there will be a blend of classic construction and casual design emerge as a new (ish) but strong market segment. What do think?
I’ve designed a collection to that effect that will hit the website this summer so I guess I’ll have to wait and see!
I have thought about this subject a lot. I know that the classic shoe industry is struggling as we are not attending events where we would wear those types of shoes. I see so many great deals out there from shoe brands trying to make some sales. I want to buy some and support them, but I have a hard time pulling the trigger knowing I do not have much need for them. I can go for days without even wearing any shoes, so why buy more? And I have my own financial concerns to think about. Yet, I also wonder I if I will end up regretting not jumping on these bargains when I had the chance. Especially if those brands are not in business anymore.
I like your idea about helping out our favorite brands by telling others and highlighting them on social media. I am going to do that with the hashtag #supportyourfavorites.
Affan K: Cheers! Yeah, hope it can mean something, all bits are important at this stake.
Yeah, that is clearly something we see. It’s the nature of things I believe, trends come and go, sometimes “timeless” things like classic shoes are more in vogue than other times, but considering it’s a type of shoes that’s been around for +100 years, I’m sure it will be for a long time still. Things will of course change over time also for this area, but it goes slowly. Personally, if it’s more dressy shoes (which I like best myself) or more casual stuff that are most popular, doesn’t really matter that much to me, as long as it’s things of good quality materials with good constructions, that can last for a long time if taken care of.
Dejuan McGuire: All one can do at this stake is a good thing. Buy from a sale is good, but as mentioned in the text buying at full price is better. Telling others and highlighting them is also worth something, so good to hear you will do that! We all can just do what we feel that we have the possibility for, and something is always better than nothing.
What I hope people do have in mind though, is that any quality shoes that you buy today, will be with you for many, many years when there’s not a pandemic. That is my point above, that even if as you mention you certainly aren’t in need of new shoes at the moment, I believe it could be worth it to buy those shoes that you feel that you will need when this has passed already today, since it is today that the brands and retailers need that order the most. If you can.
Hey Jesper, I can assure you I am doing my part and hopefully our social media posts and your blogs are benefiting the industry.
HI Jesper. What’s happening at Foster and Son? They are running another deep sale, this time on current model shoes and trees. They had another one for old bespoke samples and old season models late 2020. I read your article at the time about them and their response. Are they in more trouble? Thanks
Andre: Yeah I know you do, and sure it makes a difference!
FR: Saw about the sale yesterday yes, thought I’d write a post about it today, since there’s some great bargains to be made for sure. I don’t know more about the situation than I did when I wrote the article, haven’t researched things more since then.
Jesper
Once you’ve accumulated a fair number of shoes it’s difficult to justify another pair. Diminishing returns sets in. My shoes are well constructed and hence won’t require replacing any time soon. The fine dress shoe industry needs to attract new customers and adapt it’s offerings to current tastes, less formal more casual.
Misbah: Sure, as I write in the article, I want those who are to buy new shoes to not wait until later, but rather order those now. If you aren’t in need of new shoes, it’s of course a different thing.
Of course this industry needs to attract new customers, but it’s definitely not the easiest time for that, which is why it’s even more important what we who are already in it do, also so that there will be brands and stores in good conditions around when it’s time to attract new customers widely again.
Maybe not a time to support “brands and retailers” but to support independent makers whose livelihoods are directly jeapordised and often lack the resources of “brands and retailers”. And who make better shoes.
Nick: With “brands” I of course include independent shoemakers as well, which I thought was obvious when one read the article. But I stand by the fact that all – retailers, bigger brands, smaller brands, independent makers, etc – need support at this time. It’s just as much about livelihoods to be saved in all these cases, if you get sacked from an employer or don’t receive orders doesn’t make any difference. And as I’ve written about before ( https://shoegazing.com/2020/08/23/reflection-why-we-need-shoe-brands-that-take-shortcuts/ ), without the accessible lower priced Goodyear welted brands there would be no market for independent makers. Also don’t agree that independent makers automatically means they make better shoes, loads of bad shoes are made by independent makers as well. Either way, the ones you should support are the ones you think matters, and if that is an independent maker, excellent!