When one talk about classic men’s shoes it always feel a bit weird to talk about “hyped” styles, given that in most cases the ones that are all the rave at the moment have been around for loads of decades. The latest such, the split toe derby, has been sold as hot cakes for quite a few years now, yet it still seam to just continue to increase in popularity.
It’s like it’s the perfect fit for all who love great welted footwear and been wearing mainly various oxfords for a long time, but needs more of something less formal when people tend to dress more and more that way. This particular model above is made by the Japanese maker Seiji McCarthy, versions like this in embossed grain leathers and suede ones are the hottest of the hot at the moment. Unlike the double monk strap who was the most hyped model of the 2010’s, the split toe derby is a more subtle shoe, which means that it hasn’t become a fashion shoe the same way as the monks traps (we are yet to see a split toe derby at H&M or Zara for example, while there sold plenty of double monks), which likely will result in it to stay around to a much larger extent as well also after the peak has passed, whenever that will be.
Learn more about the interesting history of the split toe derby in this article.
I’ve become more and more enamoured with the split toe derby over my shoe journey. I have 4 pair of split toes at the moment and fell like the design hits the spot: not many men outside of those who love quality welted ‘proper’ shoes, I suspect, own a pair. Perhaps the generous fit of the open lacing, or the potential to add an apron, of the fact you’ll likely be the only person wearing the style has brought me to love the split toe – certainly over the monk strap. You are right: I haven’t seen the split toe derby in mainstream fashion shops…yet! I don’t think we will; certainly in the way double monks had their window of time.
Cheers
Anthony
Thanks for this, Jesper,
I love split toes for about a year split toe derby was all I collected. I also searched for split toe oxfords, which are fairly difficult to find for reasons I now understand. But I commissioned a couple of pair, then found a beautiful pair by A Testoni. I think they deserve the growing interest.
Anthony and Peter: Thanks for sharing your thoughts! Nice you dig the split toes.
The split toe is a shoe for shoe enthusiasts only. I think the uninitiated find them quite ugly. It takes time to appreciate the beauty of the split toe.
That’s not to say all split toe derbies are equal. I still think the Edward Green Dover on the 606 last is the finest looking example.
Ross, I have to agree on the Dovers. But I think the Meccariello Centution is also right up there also.
I agree Peter, they’re a beautiful shoe, but possibly not as versatile as the Dover in term of which outfits they look good with.
Who makes the split toe in at the start of this article? Reminds me of some of the Japanese greats, but am curious to know who it actually is.
GBS: As mentioned above, it’s Seiji McCarthy.