The picture - Different sole stitch spi

The shoes above all have a really high stitch density on the sole seams, with from the left 18, 16 and 14 spi (stitches per inch). Already the lowest one is a high spi for bespoke shoes, but Eiji Murata of Main d’Or isn’t really an ordinary maker. Now, the 18 spi version doesn’t really go well on actual customer shoes, with today’s leathers it becomes too fragile, but 16 spi I have on my latest pair from him.


You can see more of that pair in this article. As I’ve written about before, high spi doesn’t really add anything in terms of making the more durable or so (the opposite of you go too high, as mentioned above), but if done well it showcase craftsmanship, since it’s more difficult the finer the stitching is to make everything neat and clean, and of course it takes time. To me personally, it also looks great, maybe not on all shoes, but on these here it’s certainly lovely.