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To make a well-executed contrasting sole stitch is an artform. Normally, you either darken the entire sole edge and seam, or you leave all natural coloured. When one do it the middle way and darken the edge and part of the welt but leave the stitching light coloured, it’s tricky to make it neat looking – which makes it all the more lovely when achieved well.
I’m currently in Japan, and one of the highlights this far was picking up my fourth pair from the bespoke shoemaker Eiji Murata, alias Main d’Or. An exquisite pair of split toe derbies in a medium brown embossed grain leather, made to the same extremely high standard as he’s known for.
The shoes above all have a really high stitch density on the sole seams, with from the left 18, 16 and 14 spi (stitches per inch). Already the lowest one is a high spi for bespoke shoes, but Eiji Murata of Main d’Or isn’t really an ordinary maker. Now, the 18 spi version doesn’t really go well on actual customer shoes, with today’s leathers it becomes too fragile, but 16 spi I have on my latest pair from him.
Few can finish a sole edge as nicely as Eiji Murata of Main d’Or. His shoes are proof that the often used term “a handmade look” or similar, is basically just an excuse for not doing it as good as one could. Some thoughts on this in conjunction with this photo.
A nice fiddle back waist is always a pleasure to look at, and when they are as built-up and well-made as this here by Japanese bespoke shoemaker Main d’Or, they are pure eye candy. Just as aesthetically pleasing as the model it’s based on.
Articles continued:
Leather that is really dense with small pores is in general a lot easier to have a shine on, also on areas that moves. The younger the calf is the denser the hide, that’s why this type of leather nowadays usually is called babycalf, even if it was standard calf leather a number of decades ago.
For the first, and perhaps the last time, I’m hereby presenting the highly prestigious Shoegazing Bespoke Awards, where me, myself and I have decided which bespoke shoemakers I think deserves to be awarded in four different categories: Creativity, Finishing, Patterns and Highest Minimum Level.
Once again time for a review of my shoe collection at its current state – one of the most asked for articles from readers. This time it’s 30 pairs of shoes shown in lots of pictures and some text.
Yesterday I received my third pair from the mythic Japanese bespoke shoemaker Eiji Murata, alias Main d’Or. Shoes made literally to perfection, incredible craftsmanship and finishing. Here’s loads of pictures of the masterpieces.
Christmas is a celebration of traditions, and here at Shoegazing it means a Christmas oozing image of fine shoes, so also this year. I also wish all of you readers a very Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!
