The Swedish store Skoaktiebolaget today launches its latest addition to the brand flora in the store, nothing less than British Foster & Son, which this year opened the first new shoe factory in over a decade in British Northampton. Premium shoes of the finest kind is what it’s all about.
Foster & Son is one of three (along with John Lobb and George Cleverley) still active companies of the famous West End bespoke shoemakers in London. Founded in 1840, and since the 70’s, they have housed on the shoe street Jermyn Street. For many years, in addition to its full bespoke, RTW has also been offered, made by various factories in Northampton, but two years ago they invested heavily and opened their own factory. Now they raised the level of RTW, and produce very high quality premium shoes of solid old British cut. Read more about the new factory in this article.
From Foster’s new, nice factory.
Skoaktiebolaget, which, due to the corona crisis, makes the brand launch only online, has introduced around 10 different models from Foster & Son. Everything from a classic black plain cap toe and semi brogue oxford in black, dark brown and light brown, to an unlined loafer (coming soon) and Foster’s fine version of a split toe derby. The prices start at €990, and then this is about shoes with the finest upper leather, oak bark tanned soles and very careful construction. The shoe company has only models from the slightly simpler range Fosters offers with square waists, Fosters also has an even finer range similar to for example Edward Green Top Drawer and Gaziano & Girling Deco, with fantastic waists and very tightly cut, slightly tapered heels which I personally would have loved to see represented. However, it costs about €700 more, so I understand the choice, and for those who want, one can order these (and of course the standard range) as MTO. For Swedish clients Skoaktiebolaget will have visits from Fosters once or twice a year where they will also offer Fosters & Son’s full bespoke.
Semi brogue in light brown leather on a beautiful last with a soft square toe, a signum from Foster’s bespoke with the legendary lastmaker Terry Moore.
Neat bottoms.
Three different black models.
Heavier grain oxford. All pictures: Skoaktiebolaget
Hoe cool is that! Well done Andy 🙂
I saw their RTW in Jermyn Street. They are well made. But I question their pricing strategy. They are charging MTO price for RTW (at least in the main shop). If I want MTO, I want options, like patina, which is limited in FS (and there is an article on Permanent Style about FS tried to imitate a patina on a pair of bespoke with cream only and went badly wrong).
Don’t get me wrong, FS makes good shoes, it is just the world has moved from just black and brown, burnished or not. And if you can afford their RTW price, you probably would want to try bespoke instead, since you would soon find out, RTWs, no matter how well made and well fitted, have nothing in special. Don’t you want something just for you when you are paying that kind of money?
Their RTW factory also seems to coincide with Matusda’s departure. Just chance?
They also offer briefcases in the main shop. The offering of leather goods is understandable, but briefcase making is quite a different discipline and it is also time-consuming with hand sewing, as they claim. I still don’t know whether that is outsourced or not.
Are they trying to be EG? That would be sad.
Good to see them available more widely, a surprising company to see on Skoak but welcome nevertheless!
As you say, it’s a shame their highest range RTW isn’t available – I saw a pair of these sidelace wholecuts in their Jermyn St store in London and they were just lovely – I’d accept that £1,750 for RTW might put them as an outlier for Skoak’s pricing though:
https://foster.co.uk/product/olivier-sequoia/
Andre: Yup, good one!
SG.C: I don’t really understand or agree with much of what you write, to be honest. Maybe you have moved away from “black and brown, burnished or not”, but the world certainly hasn’t. I think it’s great that we see more options with patina etc, but “the world” in general still prefers aniline dyed boxcalf or subtly burnished crust leathers in the regular brown shades. It goes for both bespoke shoemakers and factory-made shoes that offers both types of shoes, that regular black and brown (and perhaps also burgundy) leather way outsell the patina options, even in those cases there’s no upcharge for patina.
Regarding the pricing, bespoke from Fosters cost four times more than their base RTW. It’s not just to choose one or the other. Yes there are cheaper bespoke out there, but the likes of Kielman or Maftei are a bit different to bespoke from the likes of Fosters. You can’t find that type of bespoke at anything close to the same price as Fosters RTW.
The bespoke department at Fosters has been quite troubled with many leaving, not just Emiko. I hope they have settled in a good way now. The factory and bespoke department don’t have much to do with each other though on a working level, though.
Leather goods is outsourced, very few shoe manufacturers makes leather goods as well, even belts are outsourced in general.
For me, and I know for many shoe interested, the main attraction with Foster’s RTW is the extremely well-balanced lasts, which all comes from models made by Terry Moore, and patterns. It’s hard to define what it is that makes them look so pleasing, Terry has a terrific eye for balance. And many who like this look would never be able to afford their bespoke. Now they have an option which of course isn’t the same, but for many likely sufficient.
As I write about in the article about the factory opening (linked above), it’s mainly G&G’s success with opening their own RTW factory and combining this with a proper bespoke department that has inspired Fosters with this move. So if anything they try to be G&G, but in a more traditional British way.
Sam: Yeah seen and handled both ranges, and both well-made, but the finer range sure is something special, lovely looking! But then yes, very expensive.
Jasper,would you say that they are on par with EG leather quality wise?I’ve always been fixated by EG eventhough there are always better options at lower prices (Enzo Bonafe,Vass, G&G Classic Range to name a few). This year,i made the decision to only invest in EG (because based on the pairs I own,the leather quality has been ageing fantastically).
However, with the introduction of F&S, it has made me rethink my decision especially in terms of their split toe and also their plain captoe (2 additions that i was looking at were the EG Chelsea and Dover prior)
In your view, which one has the better edge right now and also long term as part of a shoe collection?
Hattman: When I saw Fosters RTW seemed excellent, surely on pair with EG. Haven’t owned and used a pair though. If I were you I’d consider giving Fosters a try if you’re keen on the looks etc, if you still think EG is a better choice after that you can go back to your original plan.