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I’ve done a few of these articles, highlighting three brands that are relatively unknown to the masses, either for being very new or for other reasons. This time it’s the Japanese MTO brand Lightbulb, the established Chinese brand Twinkima.G who now seem to start looking more internationally as well, and former Cleverley head lastmaker Adam Law’s own bespoke brand.
Recently I received a new pair from the Chinese maker Acme Shoemaker, a pair of MTM / semi bespoke casual split toe derby made in a truly amazing camel leather. It has a lovely natural grain character and on top of that it’s very hard wearing, making it work perfect for a chunkier more heavy shoe that will likely be worn a bit harder.
One of the more established players that has emerged on the Chinese scene of men’s shoes in recent years is Oct. Tenth, the house brand of what’s known to many as the Xibao workshop. With the move to a new workshop location, a new website, and a new factory manager, they now enter the era of Oct. Tenth 2.0. Here’s a buyer’s guide to the brand, with a pair of Made to Measure derbies I have made as a base.
Here’s a thorough look at a new pair I received from the Chinese maker Acme Shoemaker, a pair of MTM / semi bespoke split toe derbys with hand braided contrasting stitching. The special thing with Acme is that all their shoes are made to the same standard, from the main RTW range to the full bespoke offerings.
The Chinese premium brand Acme Shoemaker has introduced a new range of more affordable shoes. The shoes are still hand lasted, hand welted with fully hand stitched sole seams – but some simpler make means they can be offered at €900. Looks like quite a lot of bang for the buck.
Articles continued:
The Norwegian menswear store Cavour expand their already great selection of shoes with a new private label range of hand welted shoes, made in collaboration with Chinese Xibao. Superbly sleek looking shoes available to get off the shelf.
Blazing Wonders, BW Shoes, offers exquisitely looking hand welted shoes at an impressive price tag, starting at €500, where the ambition is to offer shoes that look like way more expensive bespoke shoes to a larger group of customers. Here’s a substantial review of a pair from them.
For those fond of the charismatic spade sole look one normally would have to hunt for – often very expensive – vintage pieces from the first half of the 1900’s, or find a bespoke shoemaker who could do it properly. Until now, with the new brand Ace of Spades, offering Blake stitched or highly affordable hand welted vintage oozing spade sole shoes as MTO or MTM.
Acme Shoemaker is the Chinese brand that has created the most buzz domestically and internationally the past year, rightfully so. Their RTW, MTO and bespoke are of absolute top class in all regards. Here’s a closer look at a new pair I received from them, and also briefly about Acme’s new website, which includes a webshop where you can order their RTW.
Today the Chinese brand Yearn Shoemaker launched a new website aimed on the international market. Their very fine fully handmade shoes at prices starting from €340 now take a huge leap in accessibility, which now can be bought with about a weeks delivery time all over the world.
