Church’s intends to move all its footwear production to the UK over the coming years, including models currently made in Italy. The plans would broaden its British manufacturing beyond the traditional Goodyear-welted range.
Church’s journey since they were bought by the Italian luxury house Prada in 1999 has been highly debated in the shoe world. Some experienced a decline in quality and most new products launched were more fashion oriented than what the brand was known for. When sales was going through some tough times, the brand then in an attempt to try a new approach raised prices with with almost 50% over night late 2020, which only resulted in a further decline in sales.
Church’s top range the Crown Collection is one of few ambitious developments within the classic styles in recent years.
A few years ago Italian Danni Manzatto was appointed CEO, now also President, and even though questionable things like the pricing remains, other things points to a new direction. The plans to move all shoe production back to the UK is one clear such thing.
Denni Manzatto outlines the ambition in an interview with Vogue Business. Models affected include the Shanghai and certain sneakers which nowadays are produced in Italy. Its Goodyear-welted production has remained in Northampton town, with the St James Road factory continuing to play a central role. Church’s acquired the premises in 1957, making the building a longstanding part of its manufacturing history. The move requires investment in facilities and skills, supported by owner Prada Group. No precise completion date is given.
The significant point here is therefore not really a return to British manufacturing, but an expansion of what Church’s makes there. Bringing additional footwear categories into the operation could give the factory a broader role alongside its established welted production.
The Northampton factory of Church’s, that’s been around for a while.
Manufacturing location and quality should, of course, be considered separately. Moving the making of a shoe from Italy to Britain does not automatically make it better. From a quality footwear perspective, the interesting questions concern the constructions, materials and processes Church’s chooses for the relocated models, and how these will fit alongside its existing production.
I’d say the main thing though is for the shoe industry of Northampton in general. Church’s is still one of the biggest players of the UK shoe industry, and for the whole infrastructure of suppliers and so on, these are vital. For now, this remains an announced ambition rather than a completed move. When and if it’s realised, it would offer an interesting example of an international luxury group using its resources to expand British shoemaking.
The pre-patinated Shanghai models are an example of more fashion oriented stuff launched by Church’s in recent years. The plan is to start making these in the UK now instead of Italy. Pictures: Church’s
